Annapurna I: height 8091m the 10th-highest mountain in the world, Annapurna was the first of the 8000m peaks to be climbed. First Ascent: Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal, 3 June 1950 French Annapurna expedition
The Annapurna massif and surrounding area are protected by Nepal’s first and largest conservation area, one of the most beautiful treks in the world.
Annapurna I (8167m). Annapurna I is tenth among Earth’s fourteen eight-thousands. At an altitude of 8091 meters, it lies in the western Himalayas of Nepal. This mountain section is a 55 km-long massif bounded by the Kali Gandaki Gorge on the west, the Marshyangdi River on the north and east, and Pokhara Valley on the south. this is one of the most technical climbing peaks in the Himalayas. Among these ranges, Annapurna 1 stands at an elevation of 8091 meters being the 10th highest mountain range in the world. it was first climbed in 1950, as the first 8000 m plus summit conquered by the French team under Maurice Herzog. This team was the first ones to explore the Kali Gandaki valley.
This mountain trek is one of the two most dangerous treks in the world, the other one being Mount K2. It is an adventurous yet arduous trekking route and takes a lot of courage and physicality to complete this journey. It takes about 53 days to complete this trek with a climbing duration of 32 days. The journey begins with a flight/car ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara, followed by a series of treks across beautiful villages like Ghandruk, Ghorepani, Lete, Ghasa and much more. While passing through, a wide range of flora and fauna, tropical forests, and ethnic villages of Manang and Gurung communities can be encountered. It takes about 8-9 days to reach the Annapurna base camp, which is at an altitude of 4130 meters.
Expedition Base camp
We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the Annapurna expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with comfort mattress and pillow. We provide a roomy dining hall with chairs and tables – carpeted, heated and we have communication tent a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent cook at base camp to provide the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics essential for a successful expedition.
Training and Climbing Approach
We spend several nights at base camp for proper acclimatization before we head to the higher camps. Upon arrival at base camp, we organize climbing training covering climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, use of oxygen, mask and regulator etc. We climb couple of times on our acclimatization hike to camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 to test your climbing skills before we head out on our attempt to Annapurna Summit (8091 m), The summit day of annapurna, Most climbers begin their summit bid at 8:00 pm. If all goes well they reach the main summit between 7-10 am. It takes about Five hours to return to Camp Four from the summit and another Two hours to get to camp Three for overnight stay and next day walk to base camp.
The most suitable seasons to carry out this expedition is during Fall (September to November) or spring (March to May). Climbing Sherpas guide complete their Responsibility of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a good weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to base camp and then camp one, camp two, camp three and then the Summit. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa guide ratio to help that every climber has complete support to go the summit and return back to base camp safely.
BEST SESSION TO VISIT NEPAL
Autumn Session: September – November
The autumn months of mid-September, October and November are known for being Nepal’s mountaineering and the best time to go trekking. The monsoon rains have cleared the sky with outstanding the views are often remarkable. The valleys are still green and the weather is trifling so trekking is far more pleasurable at this time.
Winter Session : December – February
Winter season is usually snowfall at higher elevations in Himalayas. Though it gets colder in night, often it offers the clear day / blue sky and comparatively less trekkers on the trail. Winter Treks like Ghorepani pun hill trek, Mardi Himal trek, Everest base camp, Annapurna Panorama, Annapurna Sanctuary, Everest base and Langtang reason treks are always comfortable to trek even in winter season.
Spring Session: March – May
Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal. Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.
Summer Session: June – August
Though summer collects heavy monsoon rainfall it is very much clear to trek around upper and lower Mustang, lower and upper Dolpo and Nar- Phu valley since they are rain shadow areas. Tibet is much more favorable for Tibet trek. Everest, Langtang and Annapurna are always comfortable to trek even in summer season.
Climbing and Team Composition
The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide. In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber during the Climbing. All climbing Sherpa guide have inclusive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. This arrangement ensure that if anybody in the group get sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned for the rest of the group. One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition. Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb and Experienced base camp manager and necessary staff above base camp.
Physical Condition & Experience Requirements
Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. on the day of summit will be required to walk 8-9 hours ascending and descending. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. It is important for medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases to consult their doctors before taking the trip.
Member Personal Climbing Equipment
S.No: Particular. Qty
(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1
(2): down suit -1
(3) : Crampon – 1
(4) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1
(5) : Normal gloves – 2
(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1
(7) : Glacier glasses – 1
(8) : Ice axe – 1
(9) : Harness & tapsling – 1
(10) : Jumer – 1
(11) : Carabiners (normal) – 3
(12) : Down filled Mattress – 1
(13) : Summit socks – 2
(14) : Normal socks – 6
(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) – 1
(16) : Helmet – 1
(17) : Down jacket – 1
(18) : Down trouser – 1
(19) : 8 finger / descender – 1
(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot) – 1
(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1
(22) : Gore-tex trouser – 1
(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3
(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 2
(24) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1
(25) : Thermos bottle – 1
(26) : Base layer – 2
(27) : Swise Knife -1
If you are Going Trekking and Climbing in Nepal, you Should Carry the Complete Medic kit.
First Aid Kit:
1. Povidone-iodine cream -1 tube.
– Antiseptic cream.
2. Cotton- 1 roll.
–For dressing wounds.
3. Dressing gauze –5 pcs.
– For dressing.
4. Crepe bandage –2.
– Sprains and strains,also great as a sling for arm fractures.
5. Band- aid –10.
6. Dressing tape -1.
– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.
7. Moleskin second skin -1 packet:
– Great for treating chaffing and blisters.
Finger Pulse Oximeter:
1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).
2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.
3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.
4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.
8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:
– For mild headaches.
9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:
– To relieve moderate to severe pain.
10.Throat lozenges -20:
– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.
11.Decongestant -10 tablets:
– For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.
12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:
– For allergies.
13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:
– To control the vomit and nausea.
14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:
– For bacterial diarrhea.
15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:
– For minor gastric upsets and acidity.
16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):
– For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.
17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:
– For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.
18. Dexamethasone 400mg -10 tablets:
– To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.
19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:
– To be use only under expert supervision to treat HAPE.
0 Reviews on Annapurna Expedition I 8091 m