Ama Dablam (6812) Expedition is popular for alpine rock climb. This Trek begins in Kathmandu with the sightseeing of Heritage Sites. From Lukla we begin our trek. It is a small snow capped peak in the Everest region. From the top of Ama Dablam Expedition it offers your the panoramic of the 4 world’s highest peak.The three camps are set for the Ama Dablam Expedition but only two camps are used to spend the night. The ascent to Ama Dablam is made through the South-Western Ridge. This route provide varied and sustained climb. This trek is the most difficult trek. The normal route for the trek is South-West Ridge. Climbing the Ridge we find sever rock which leads to the top of yellow tower. Hence we knew that is it one of the most difficult expedition. So the trekkers must have the good skills in rock and ice climbing. But however in most of the routes we get fixed rope.
Expedition Base camp
We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the Ama dablam expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with comfort mattress and pillow. We provide a roomy dining hall with chairs and tables, carpeted, heated and we have communication tent a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent cook at base camp to provide the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics essential for a successful expedition.
Training and Climbing Approach
Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the best ways of using climbing gear such as the Ice Axe, climbing boots, crampons, harness,ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying. The training will also include using ropes for climbing both up and down. The training will boost our confidence and climbing skills, therefore increasing our chance of a successful summit of the mountain. Overnight in Ama Dablam Base Camp. Base Camp to Yak Camp (5100m). we hike along a moraine ridge with amazing views of the mountain and route. Eventually we join the beginning of the Southwest Ridge, at this point a large plateau, and The climb from Yak Camp heads up the Southwest Ridge where it turns from a plateau to a knife-edge. The climb begins on a trail but enters a large talus field and we climb over granite boulders. The final 200 meters are climbed using fixed lines up a steep rock slab where camp one sits on rock platforms at the top of this slab.
Camp one to camp two (5900 m) From Camp One we start the technical climbing using fixed ropes with short sections of up to lower camp three climbing. The crux pitch of the entire route is found here with the Yellow Tower en route to our Camp two located at 5,900 meters. Camp two to camp three (6350 m): The climb to Camp three is mostly ice and mixed climbing, including the steep Grey Tower. We cross Mushroom Ridge, a series of cornices and ice sculptures, just before reaching Camp three. We build Camp three on the Mushroom Ridge in order to avoid any serac danger from the Dablam that has since made the traditional Camp Three redundant. Summit day is technically easier than anything we have climbed up until high camp. The route involves snow and ice up to 50 degrees, climbed using the safety of the fixed ropes in place.
The most suitable seasons to carry out this expedition is during Fall September to November or spring (March to May). Climbing Sherpas guide complete their duty of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a good weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to camp one then camp two, camp three then the Summit. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa guide ratio to help that every climber has complete support to go the summit and return back to base camp safely.
BEST SESSION TO VISIT NEPAL
Autumn Session: September – November
The autumn months of mid-September, October and November are known for being Nepal’s mountaineering and the best time to go trekking. The monsoon rains have cleared the sky with outstanding the views are often remarkable. The valleys are still green and the weather is trifling so trekking is far more pleasurable at this time.
Winter Session : December – February
Winter season is usually snowfall at higher elevations in Himalayas. Though it gets colder in night, often it offers the clear day / blue sky and comparatively less trekkers on the trail. Winter Treks like Ghorepani pun hill trek, Mardi Himal trek, Everest base camp, Annapurna Panorama, Annapurna Sanctuary, Everest base and Langtang reason treks are always comfortable to trek even in winter season.
Spring Session: March – May
Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal. Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.
Summer Session: June – August
Though summer collects heavy monsoon rainfall it is very much clear to trek around upper and lower Mustang, lower and upper Dolpo and Nar- Phu valley since they are rain shadow areas. Tibet is much more favorable for Tibet trek. Everest, Langtang and Annapurna are always comfortable to trek even in summer season.
Climbing and Team Composition
The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide. In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber during the Climbing. All climbing Sherpa guide have inclusive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. This arrangement ensure that if anybody in the group get sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned for the rest of the group. One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition. Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb and Experienced base camp manager and necessary staff above base camp.
Physical Condition and Experience Requirements
Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. on the day of summit will be required to walk 8-9 hours ascending and descending. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. It is important for medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases to consult their doctors before taking the trip.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,350m): 35 minute fly.
From Tribhuban International Airport you will be transferred to your hotel.In the afternoon briefing about the each day program of ama dablam expedition. O/n at hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu: sightseeing and trek preparation.
We tour to world heritage sites. The Durbar Square reveals the life of the royals in ancient times. Pashupatinath temple is one of the most important places of pilgrimage for all Hindus. Swayambhunath is also known as the Monkey Temple and Boudhanath stupa is one of the largest stupas in the world. O/n at hotel.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m) then trek to Phakding (2,652m) 30 min flight, 3-4 hours.
Early morning drive to airport by tourist vehicle. After a flying above the breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. We meet our other crew members and after some packing and arrangements, we start our trek to Phakding. O/n at hotel.
Day 04: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) 5-6 hours.
After breakfast we walk through beautiful pine forests and then along Dudh Koshi River ending our nature-filled journey at Namche Bazaar. After walking for almost over an hour, we come across the glistening Mt. Thamserku (6,608m) on our right and also experience the serenity of pine, fir and juniper forests throughout our journey. We continue walking until we reach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, the gateway to Mt. Everest and main trading centre of this region. This day we cross five suspension bridges. It is an uphill walk from last bridges to Namche Bazaar. O/n at hotel.
Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3,440m) Acclimatization Day.
Health experts recommend that we stay active and move around even during the rest day instead of being idle. There are a few options set aside for this day.we can hike up to the Everest View Hotel and enjoy an up-close view of the mighty Everest. While in the Namche village or upon returning from the hike to the Everest View Hotel, trekkers may also visit the local museum. O/n at hotel.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar vai Tengboche to pangboche(3,870m): 7- 8 hours.
trek towards Tengboche. It is an easy walk from Namche to Phunki. Upon reaching Phunki, we ascend towards Tengboche, very famous Tengboche monastery which is the largest monastery of the Everest region.We descend for about half an hour through a forest before crossing a river. As we climb higher and We reached traditional Sherpa village of Pangboche. O/n at hotel.
Day 07: pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4570m): 5-6 hours.
from Pangboche crossing the Dudh Koshi River. Next, we ascend on a trail which will take us to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. The Base Camp is large and open grassland at the foot of Mt. Ama Dablam. Overnight at Ama Dablam Base Camp. O/n at tented.
Day 08: Acclimatization and Pre-climb Training at Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the best ways of using climbing gear such as the ice axe, climbing boots, crampons, harness, ascender, etc. The training will also include using ropes for climbing both up and down. The training will boost our confidence and climbing skills, thus increasing our chance of a successful summit of the mountain. Overnight in Ama Dablam Base Camp. O/n at tented.
Day 09: Amadablem Base Camp to Yak Camp (5180m) and back to base camp.
we hike along a moraine ridge with amazing views of the mountain and route. Eventually we join the beginning of the Southwest Ridge, at this point a large plateau, and follow it for approximately 3 hours to get upper yak kharka. O/ n at tented.
Day 10: Full day Rest at Base Camp.
Day Ascending and Descending of Ama Dablam (6856m)
Day 11: Amadablem Base Camp to Camp One (5600m): 4-5 hours.
From the Ama Dablam Base Camp we move further up to Camp 1 at (5,600m) along the standard route.The final 200 meters are climbed using fixed lines up a steep rock slab where camp one sits on rock platforms at the top of this slab.Generally, one night is spent at Camp 1 for acclimatization. O/n at tented.
Day 12: Camp One to Camp Two and Back to Camp one (5900m): 4 hours.
From Camp One we start the technical climbing using fixed ropes with short sections of up to 5.8 climbing. The crux pitch of the entire route is found here with the Yellow Tower en route to our Camp two located at 5,900 meters. O/n at tented.
Day 13: Next Day Return to Base Camp.
Return to the Base Camp for the final preparation to scale the summit. O/n at tented
Day 14: Rest Day. 15:Rest Day.17: Rest Day.
Day 18: Base Camp to Camp One (5600m): 4-5 hours.
From the Ama Dablam Base Camp we move further up to Camp 1 at (5,600m) along the standard route.The final 200 meters are climbed using fixed lines up a steep rock slab where camp one sits on rock platforms at the top of this slab. O/n at tented.
Day 19: Camp One to Camp Two (5900m) : 4 hours.
From Camp 1, we follow existing fixed lines and then establish new ropes wherever necessary both for ascent and descent. The crux pitch of the entire route is found here with the Yellow Tower en route to our Camp two located at 5,900 meters. O/n at tented.
Day 20: Camp Two to Camp Three (6350m): 4 hours.
The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is comprised of mixed rock, snow and ice, which is loose in certain places.including the steep Grey Tower.We build Camp three on the Mushroom ridge. O/n at tented.
Day 21:Camp Three to Summit (6812m): 3-4 hours.
The climb from Camp 3 to the summit is relatively less technical.including the steep Grey Tower.We build Camp three on the Mushroom ridge After submitting the peak, we return back to the base camp. O/n tented.
Day 22: Amadable Base Camp to Namche Bazer (3450m): 7 hours.
Today’s walk will be a much easier as we descend to the lower altitudes. Following the same route back through the wide valley of Khumbu Khola, we pass through the beautiful Sherpa villages Orsho and Shomare. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kangtaiga to the east, the Kongde range to the south and the Imja Tse river flowing through the wide fertile valley. O/n at hotel.
Day 23: Namche Bazaar to Lukla (3450): 6-7 hours.
The trail descends steeply downward so we need to walk carefully as our shaky legs continuously battle the rocky terrain. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast flowing Dudh Koshi and its tributaries, the trail becomes more level and natural. After our arrival in Lukla, we stretch those sore legs and recall the experiences of the last couple of weeks. O/n at hotel.
Day 24: Fly to Kathmandu:
We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu,There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the climbers’ successful summit of the Island peak. O/n at hotel.
Day 25: Final Departure:
Final Departure to your own destination Generally 3 hours before your flight time to get Kathmandu airport is needed in Nepal.
Member Personal Climbing Equipment
S.No: Particular. Qty
(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1
(2) : summit down shut – 1
(2) : Crampon – 1
(3) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1
(4) : Normal gloves – 2
(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1
(7) : Glacier glasses – 1
(8) : Ice axe – 1
(9) : Harness & tapsling -1
(10) : Jumer – 1
(11) : Carabiners (normal) -3
(12) : Down filled Mattress– 1
(13) : Summit socks – 2
(14) : Normal socks – 6
(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) -1
(16) : Helmet -1
(17) : Down jacket– 1
(18) : Down trouser– 1
(19) : 8 finger / descender -1
(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot)– 1
(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1
(22) : Gore-tex trouser -1
(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3
(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 4
(25) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1
(26) : Thermos bottle – 1
(27) : Base layer (woolen) – 2
(28) : Swise Knife -1
What is the best season to attempt Ama Dablam ?
For mountaineers, the climbing window between April -May, October to November is also one of the best times to attempt an ascent to the summit. From mid-June to August, summer may sound like the prime time to visit Everest resign, From early September, the monsoon rains decrease. By end of September through to December the weather is usually stable with mild to warm days, cold nights. February, March, April, May, June, October, November, December are the best time to do peak climbing and AMA dablam expedition and trek. From July to mid-September is raining season in Nepal.
Do we require peak climbing and mountaineering permit ?
Yes you obtain the climbing permit, all mountaineering permits need to be arranged through a travel or trekking agency; it is not allowed to apply individually for expedition/ peak climbing. You will need to fill in a bio-data form and pass this to your agency. You can do this online and add your signature and photograph to the form when you are in Kathmandu. The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is authorized to issue a trekking peak climbing permit for 33 peaks up to 6500 m and climbing permits for other above 6500 m peaks are obtained from Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation.
How long does it take to climb down Ama dablam ?
This is why the whole climbing period takes three weeks to reach the top. Usually, the expedition to Mount ama dablam On an average it will take about 3-4 weeks to complete the entire expedition. Climbing Sherpa and kitchen staff start their journey from Kathmandu one week before then member.
Do I need any prior climbing experience ?
Peak climbing involves trekking as well as climbing with all the expedition equipment. Previous rock climbing and high elevation over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. High altitude sherpa guide will organize Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. Training will mostly be about using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampon and climbing equipment.
How many hours do we walk /climb each day ?
This is best measured in time – about 5 to 7 hours for each full day up to camp three and from camp three to camp summit 4-5 hours . Summit day normally stat from camp two 8/9 hours climbing and It is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the high lands might become a barrier for a successful summit.
Are there a minimum and a maximum number for your groups ?
We cater to all group sizes, while maintaining the field staff ratio to give you the best quality and experience high altitude Sherpa guide.
Can I obtain the visa for Nepal upon arrival at the airport ?
YES, you can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days can be obtained by paying US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency. Similarly, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100.
What essential documents do I need to bring with me on tours ?
Please bring a copy of your travel insurance, a copy of your passport and 3 photos (passport size) with you for your trip to Nepal. You would need photos for permits.
Will somebody come to pick me up at the Airport upon my arrival ?
Yes, our airport representative will be there to receive you at the airport. office staff will be showing high altitude sherpa guide sign-board. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel.
What sort of accommodation can I expect in Kathmandu and in trekking ?
We use standard rooms at three tourist stander hotels in Kathmandu with breakfast included. Along the trekking routes, teahouses/lodges generally provide basic clean facilities with a mattress and a quilt or blanket. The lodges in trekking routes usually provide single and double rooms, or occasionally a dormitory. At times when possible, dining will be around a bon fire. In tea houses, food will be prepared in the kitchen, which you should not enter without permission.
Are the food and water safe to eat and drink ?
Hygiene when trekking generally has improved extensively over the last ten years. local trekking guide knowledge to choose the lodges, which maintain a high standard of hygiene. Each day dinner and breakfast will be at a lodge you’ll stay at while for the lunch you would be stopping by on the way where you can order your meals as per your choice. Guide will help you to stop by at best possible places to eat. Most lodges serve boiled and filtered water, which is generally safe, we suggest a drop of iodine to be totally sure. We discourage the purchase of bottled water for the obvious environmental reasons. Please bring a water bottle with you, which you can refill.
How much additional money do I need per day ?
It depends on your spending habits. Generally, in Kathmandu, you can allocate USD 10 to USD 15 for a lunch and a dinner. USD 15 to USD 18 per person a day will be enough to buy bottles of water, chocolates, pay for the hot shower and a few drinks during the trekking. Please note, higher you go the things would be expensive especially at higher altitude; all the goods are supplied either by helicopter, horse, mules or porters therefore the things are expensive.
What mode of transportation do you use ?
Depending on the nature of the travel, the transportation to and from the destination varies from domestic flights to vehicular transportation to even piggy back rides on mules and yaks.
Do we book our own international flights to and from Nepal ?
Yes, you need to book your own International flights. We are a local agent and it would cost you significantly higher to book through us.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking ?
There are telephones in some villages along the trekking routes from which you can make international calls. All our guides carry mobile with local sim card and easily you can buy on arrival time in airport. Also we have kept a satellite phone which has poor connection for the network of phones. Our guide’s use it during the case of emergency and also clients can use them by paying its rental fee.
Can I use credit cards in the places I visit ?
Major credit cards are accepted in all places but you need to pay 4% extra as bank levy, which might make cash transaction is highly recommended. Please change the currency in local Nepali Rupees before you go to the mountains. Especially in the Everest trail, ATM would be available only in Namche Bazer and relying on it is not a better idea as you never know when things stops working. Also, if you try to exchange your foreign currency there you would be getting very less exchange rates.
Can I add extra days to my trip ?
High altitude Sherpa can add days at your request with additional costs to cover guides, porters, accommodation and food. If you are in private or solo trip it would be possible as your itinerary is very flexible or if you were in-group then this option would be limited so please make sure before departure tour.
Do I need to tip my guide and porters? How much would that be?
This is a difficult thing to scale. The level of the tip should reflect the level of satisfaction from and personal involvement with your guide. However peak bonus normally $.500 $.1000 for high altitude sherps guide.
If you are Going Trekking and Climbing in Nepal, you Should Carry the Complete Medic kit.
First Aid Kit:
1. Povidone-iodine cream -1 tube.
– Antiseptic cream.
2. Cotton- 1 roll.
–For dressing wounds.
3. Dressing gauze –5 pcs.
– For dressing.
4. Crepe bandage –2.
– Sprains and strains,also great as a sling for arm fractures.
5. Band- aid –10.
6. Dressing tape -1.
– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.
7. Moleskin second skin -1 packet:
– Great for treating chaffing and blisters.
Finger Pulse oximetry:
1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).
2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.
3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.
4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.
8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:
– For mild headaches.
9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:
– To relieve moderate to severe pain.
10.Throat lozenges -20:
– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.
11.Decongestant -10 tablets:
– For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.
12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:
– For allergies.
13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:
– To control the vomit and nausea.
14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:
– For bacterial diarrhea.
15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:
– For minor gastric upsets and acidity.
16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):
– For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.
17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:
– For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.
18. Dexamethasone 400mg -10 tablets:
– To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.
19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:
– To be use only under expert supervision to treat HAPE.
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