Baruntse Expedition (7129) is situated in the heart of Everest region. This mountain is famous like Mount Everest for expedition in this region. Edmond Hillary and McFarland were also the first summit of Mt. Baruntse. It is an exciting adventure for the climbers. It is also the easiest climb.
At High Altitude Sherpa, we ensure that all our clients have a once in a lifetime mountain climbing experience at an affordable price. Our staffs are certified professionals with years of training and guiding experience who will make sure that you get the best services at a reasonable amount. We provide first hand, well-maintained equipment to ensure as safety is our primary agenda.
Its altitude is less than others neighboring mountains. The South-East ridge is little bit difficult because of the steep climb. Spring is considered to be the best season to climb safely. However we can also climb in other season too. There are two ways to reach the peak from Lukla through Mera La Pass. One can also climb Baruntse from the Arun valley. We start our journey from Kathmandu to Lukla flight. also we use the same route after the completion of our trek.
Expedition Base camp
We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the Baruntse expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with comfort mattress and pillow. We provide a roomy dining hall with chairs and tables, carpeted, heated and we have communication tent a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent cook at base camp to provide the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics essential for a successful expedition.
Training and Climbing Approach
Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the best ways of using climbing gear such as the Ice Axe, climbing boots, crampons, harness,ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying. The training will also include using ropes for climbing both up and down. The training will boost our confidence and climbing skills, therefore increasing our chance of a successful summit of the mountain.
Baruntse Base Camp, 5300 m, is situated in a broad open valley on the lateral moraine of the Hongu glacier next to a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain. There are two additional camps above Baruntse Base Camp. High altitude Sherpa guide will fix ropes to ensure our safe ascent and descent. Acclimatization is achieved by ascending to the next high camp, then descending to the previous camp and resting. We climb the south-east ridge toward the West Col, which passes us to the glacial plateau where we set up our Baruntse Camp I, (6000 m.)
From Camp I, (6000 m) we ascend a long, low-angled glacier using fixed rope to a small col on the South-East Ridge proper, where we establish Baruntse Camp II, 6450 m. From Camp II, we push for the summit. First, we make a short steep climb on a 45° ice wall to a small col, 6500 m. There some are some steep steps on ice and short sections of rock to ascend, but the big challenge of summit day is the sharp ice shoulder, at around 7000 m, that leads onto the summit ridge. High altitude Sherpa guide will fix ropes to ensure our safe ascent and descent. The wide ridge narrows closer to the true Baruntse Summit, 7129 m, where we enjoy magnificent views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Kanchenjunga and Makalu. The summit ascent takes around 10 hours. We descend by the same route. After descending Baruntse, we cross the stunning Amphu Lapcha Pass and making our way back to Lukla.
The most suitable seasons to carry out this expedition is during Fall (September to November) or spring (March to May). Climbing Sherpas guide complete their duty of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a good weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan from base camp and then camp one, camp two, and then the Summit. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa guide ratio to help that every climber has complete support to go the summit and return back to base camp safely.
BEST SESSION TO VISIT NEPAL
Autumn Session: September – November
The autumn months of mid-September, October and November are known for being Nepal’s mountaineering and the best time to go trekking. The monsoon rains have cleared the sky with outstanding the views are often remarkable. The valleys are still green and the weather is trifling so trekking is far more pleasurable at this time.
Winter Session : December – February
Winter season is usually snowfall at higher elevations in Himalayas. Though it gets colder in night, often it offers the clear day / blue sky and comparatively less trekkers on the trail. Winter Treks like Ghorepani pun hill trek, Mardi Himal trek, Everest base camp, Annapurna Panorama, Annapurna Sanctuary, Everest base and Langtang reason treks are always comfortable to trek even in winter season.
Spring Session: March – May
Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal. Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.
Summer Session: June – August
Though summer collects heavy monsoon rainfall it is very much clear to trek around upper and lower Mustang, lower and upper Dolpo and Nar- Phu valley since they are rain shadow areas. Tibet is much more favorable for Tibet trek. Everest, Langtang and Annapurna are always comfortable to trek even in summer season.
Climbing and Team Composition.
The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide. In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber during the Climbing. All climbing Sherpa guide have inclusive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. This arrangement ensure that if anybody in the group get sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned for the rest of the group. One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition. Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb and Experienced base camp manager and necessary staff above base camp.
Physical Condition & Experience Requirement.
Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. on the day of summit will be required to walk 8-9 hours ascending and descending. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. It is important for medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases to consult their doctors before taking the trip.
|Day 1||Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel||1300 m||Hotel|
|Day 2||Expedition briefing and Preparation||1300 m||Hotel|
|Day 3||Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Chutanga (3,060m||3060 m||Lodge|
|Day 4||Trek from Chutanga to Tuli Kharka (3,900m) Via Zatrawa La Pass (4,610m)||3900 m||Lodge|
|Day 5||Trek from Tuli Kharka to Kothe||4350 m||Lodge|
|Day 6||Trek from Kothe to Thangnak||3860 m||Lodge|
|Day 7||Trek from Thangnak to Khare||5054 m||Lodge|
|Day 8||Acclimatization at Khare||5054 m||Lodge|
|Day 9||Trek from Khare to Khomadingma||4900 m||Tent|
|Day 10||Trek from Khomadingma to Seto Pokhari||5035 m||Tent|
|Day 11||Trek from Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Base camp||5400 m||Tent|
|Day 12||Day 12 to Day 27: Climbing Period [Basecamp – Baruntse Summit||7129 m||Tent|
|Day 28||Drying and Packing equipment||5400 m||Tent|
|Day 29||Trek from Baruntse Base camp to Khomadingma||4900 m||Tent|
|Day 30||Trek from Khomadingma to Thangnak||3860 m||Lodge|
|Day 01||Trek from Thagnak to Chatrabu||2990 m||Lodge|
|Day 02||Trek from Chatrabu to Lukla||2800 m||Lodge|
|Day 03||Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu Valley & transfer to the Hotel||1300 m||Hotel|
|Day 04||International flight 3 hours before the scheduled flight.||ooo||Home|
Member Personal Climbing Equipment
S.No: Particular. Qty
(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1
(2): down suit -1
(3) : Crampon – 1
(4) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1
(5) : Normal gloves – 2
(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1
(7) : Glacier glasses – 1
(8) : Ice axe – 1
(9) : Harness & tapsling – 1
(10) : Jumer – 1
(11) : Carabiners (normal) – 3
(12) : Down filled Mattress – 1
(13) : Summit socks – 2
(14) : Normal socks – 6
(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) – 1
(16) : Helmet – 1
(17) : Down jacket – 1
(18) : Down trouser – 1
(19) : 8 finger / descender – 1
(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot) – 1
(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1
(22) : Gore-tex trouser – 1
(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3
(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 2
(24) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1
(25) : Thermos bottle – 1
(26) : Base layer – 2
(27) : Swise Knife -1
What is the best season to attempt Barunste ?
For mountaineers, the climbing window between April -May, October to November is also one of the best times to attempt an ascent to the summit. From mid-June to August, summer may sound like the prime time to visit Everest resign, From early September, the monsoon rains decrease. By end of September through to December the weather is usually stable with mild to warm days, cold nights. February, March, April, May, June, October, November, December are the best time to do peak climbing and Barunste expedition and trek. From July to mid-September is raining season in Nepal.
Do we require peak climbing and mountaineering permit ?
Yes you obtain the climbing permit, all mountaineering permits need to be arranged through a travel or trekking agency; it is not allowed to apply individually for expedition/ peak climbing. You will need to fill in a bio-data form and pass this to your agency. You can do this online and add your signature and photograph to the form when you are in Kathmandu. The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is authorized to issue a trekking peak climbing permit for 33 peaks up to 6500 m and climbing permits for other above 6500 m peaks are obtained from Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation.
How long does it take to climb down Brunste ?
This is why the whole climbing period takes three weeks to reach the top. Usually, the expedition to Mount ama dablam On an average it will take about 3–4 weeks to complete the entire expedition. Climbing Sherpa and kitchen staff start their journey from Kathmandu one week before then member.
Do I need any prior climbing experience ?
Peak climbing involves trekking as well as climbing with all the expedition equipment. Previous rock climbing and high elevation over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. High altitude sherpa guide will organize Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. Training will mostly be about using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampon and climbing equipment.
How many hours do we walk /climb each day ?
This is best measured in time – about 5 to 7 hours for each full day up to camp three and from camp three to camp summit 4-5 hours . Summit day normally stat from camp two 8/9 hours climbing and It is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the high lands might become a barrier for a successful summit.
Are there a minimum and a maximum number for your groups ?
We cater to all group sizes, while maintaining the field staff ratio to give you the best quality and experience high altitude Sherpa guide.
Can I obtain the visa for Nepal upon arrival at the airport ?
YES, you can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days can be obtained by paying US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency. Similarly, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100.
What essential documents do I need to bring with me on tours ?
Please bring a copy of your travel insurance, a copy of your passport and 3 photos (passport size) with you for your trip to Nepal. You would need photos for permits.
Will somebody come to pick me up at the Airport upon my arrival ?
Yes, our airport representative will be there to receive you at the airport. office staff will be showing high altitude sherpa guide sign-board. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel.
What sort of accommodation can I expect in Kathmandu and in trekking ?
We use standard rooms at three tourist stander hotels in Kathmandu with breakfast included. Along the trekking routes, teahouses/lodges and tent generally provide basic clean facilities with a mattress and a quilt or blanket. The lodges in trekking routes usually provide single and double rooms, or occasionally a dormitory. At times when possible, dining will be around a bon fire. In tea houses, food will be prepared in the kitchen, which you should not enter without permission.
Are the food and water safe to eat and drink ?
Hygiene when trekking generally has improved extensively over the last ten years. local trekking guide knowledge to choose the lodges, which maintain a high standard of hygiene. Each day dinner and breakfast will be at a lodge you’ll stay at while for the lunch you would be stopping by on the way where you can order your meals as per your choice. Guide will help you to stop by at best possible places to eat. Most lodges serve boiled and filtered water, which is generally safe, we suggest a drop of iodine to be totally sure. We discourage the purchase of bottled water for the obvious environmental reasons. Please bring a water bottle with you, which you can refill.
How much additional money do I need per day ?
It depends on your spending habits. Generally, in Kathmandu, you can allocate USD 10 to USD 15 for a lunch and a dinner. USD 15 to USD 18 per person a day will be enough to buy bottles of water, chocolates, pay for the hot shower and a few drinks during the trekking. Please note, higher you go the things would be expensive especially at higher altitude; all the goods are supplied either by helicopter, horse, mules or porters therefore the things are expensive.
What mode of transportation do you use ?
Depending on the nature of the travel, the transportation to and from the destination varies from domestic flights to vehicular transportation to even piggy back rides on mules and yaks.
Do we book our own international flights to and from Nepal ?
Yes, you need to book your own International flights. We are a local agent and it would cost you significantly higher to book through us.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking ?
There are telephones in some villages along the trekking routes from which you can make international calls. All our guides carry mobile with local sim card and easily you can buy on arrival time in airport. Also we have kept a satellite phone which has poor connection for the network of phones. Our guide’s use it during the case of emergency and also clients can use them by paying its rental fee.
Can I use credit cards in the places I visit ?
Major credit cards are accepted in all places but you need to pay 4% extra as bank levy, which might make cash transaction is highly recommended. Please change the currency in local Nepali Rupees before you go to the mountains. Especially in the Everest trail, ATM would be available only in Namche Bazer and relying on it is not a better idea as you never know when things stops working. Also, if you try to exchange your foreign currency there you would be getting very less exchange rates.
Can I add extra days to my trip ?
High altitude Sherpa can add days at your request with additional costs to cover guides, porters, accommodation and food. If you are in private or solo trip it would be possible as your itinerary is very flexible or if you were in-group then this option would be limited so please make sure before departure tour.
Do I need to tip my guide and porters? How much would that be?
This is a difficult thing to scale. The level of the tip should reflect the level of satisfaction from and personal involvement with your guide. However peak bonus normally $.500 $.1000 for high altitude sherps guide.
If you are Going Trekking and Climbing in Nepal, you Should Carry the Complete Medic kit.
First Aid Kit:
1. Povidone-iodine cream -1 tube.
– Antiseptic cream.
2. Cotton- 1 roll.
–For dressing wounds.
3. Dressing gauze –5 pcs.
– For dressing.
4. Crepe bandage –2.
– Sprains and strains,also great as a sling for arm fractures.
5. Band- aid –10.
6. Dressing tape -1.
– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.
7. Moleskin second skin -1 packet:
– Great for treating chaffing and blisters.
Finger Pulse Oximeter:
1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).
2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.
3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.
4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.
8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:
– For mild headaches.
9. Ibuprofen 400mg –10 taplets:
– To relieve moderate to severe pain.
10.Throat lozenges -20:
– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.
11. Decongestant -10 tablets:
– For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.
12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:
– For allergies.
13. Antiemetic -10 tablets:
– To control the vomit and nausea.
14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:
– For bacterial diarrhea.
15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:
– For minor gastric upsets and acidity.
16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):
– For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.
17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:
– For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.
18. Dexamethasone 400mg -10 tablets:
– To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.
19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:
– To be use only under expert supervision to treat HAPE.
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