Kanchenjunga Expedition 8586 m

Trip Overview

Mount Kanchenjunga, Standing at 8586 m Kanchenjunga is the third highest peak in the world and the second highest in Nepal. Mt. Kanchenjunga was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band. this challenging technical mountain range is situated partly in Nepal and partly in Sikkim, India. This provides the most challenging climbing of the expedition. Mt.Kanchenjunga is considered as one the difficult and challenging 8000 m peak and to climb this peak, the climber needs extensive experiences & skills in mountaineering. Therefore, before attempting this peak, a climber must have climbed at least one above 8000 m peaks.

 

There are two Base Camps to climb Kanchenjunga, Kanchenjunga North Base Camp on the Kanchenjunga Glacier and the South Base Camp on Yalung Glacier. Kanchenjunga south face base camp is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Kanchenjunga massive. Normal climbing route is along the South east side of the mountain from the Yalung glacier which was the climbing route to the summit. The climbing from camp I to camp II is the moderate technical section on Mt. Kanchenjunga from south face or Yalung glacier. climbing rout via the South Face/normal route establishing four high camps on the mountain.

 

Trekking route of Kanchenjunga is drained by Tamur River that meets Arun below Mulghat. It takes about 48-50 days to complete this trek. Mount Kanchenjunga expedition begins after taking a 50 -min flight to Bhadrapur (700 m) from Kathmandu & from Bhadrapur we drive to Tharpu (1820 m) via Phidim. We will start our walk from Tharpu for 10 days to Kanchenjunga Base Camp at 4,500 meters.


Expedition Base camp

We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the Kanchenjunga expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with comfort mattress and pillow. We provide a roomy dining hall with chairs and tables – carpeted, heated and we have communication tent a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent cook at base camp to provide the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics essential for a successful expedition.


Training and Climbing Approach

We spend several nights at base camp for proper acclimatization before we head to the higher camps. Upon arrival at base camp, we organize climbing training covering climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, use of oxygen, mask and regulator etc. We climb couple of times on our acclimatization hike to camp 1camp 2 and camp 3 to test your climbing skills before we head out on our attempt to climb Kanchenjunga.

 

The most suitable seasons to carry out this expedition is during Fall September to November or spring (March to May). Climbing Sherpas guide complete their duty of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a good weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to base camp and then camp onecamp two and then the Summit. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa guide ratio to help that every climber has complete support to go the summit and return back to base camp safely.


BEST SESSION TO VISIT NEPAL

 

Autumn Session: September – November  

The autumn months of mid-September, October and November are known for being Nepal’s mountaineering and the best time to go trekking. The monsoon rains have cleared the sky with outstanding the views are often remarkable. The valleys are still green and the weather is trifling so trekking is far more pleasurable at this time.

Winter Session : December – February 

Winter season is usually snowfall at higher elevations in Himalayas. Though it gets colder in night, often it offers the clear day / blue sky and comparatively less trekkers on the trail. Winter Treks like Ghorepani pun hill trek, Mardi Himal trek, Everest base camp, Annapurna Panorama, Annapurna Sanctuary, Everest base and Langtang reason treks are always comfortable to trek even in winter season.

Spring Session: March – May 

 Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal.  Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.

Summer Session: June – August 

Though summer collects heavy monsoon rainfall it is very much clear to trek around upper and lower Mustang, lower and upper Dolpo and Nar- Phu valley since they are rain shadow areas. Tibet is much more favorable for Tibet trek. Everest, Langtang and Annapurna are always comfortable to trek even in summer season.


Climbing and Team Compositio

The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide. In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber  during the Climbing. All climbing Sherpa guide have inclusive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. This arrangement ensure that if anybody in the group get sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned for the rest of the group. One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition. Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb and  Experienced base camp manager and necessary staff above base camp.


Physical Condition & Experience Requirements

Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. on the day of summit will be required to walk 9-10 hours ascending  and descending. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. It is important for medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases to consult their doctors before taking the trip.

Detail Itinerary

DAYS    ITINERARY   ALTITUDE O/N
Day 1    Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel   1300 m  Hotel
Day 2    Expedition briefing and Preparation   1300 m  Hotel
Day 3    Fly from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur and Drive to Phidim   1000 m  Hotel
Day 4    Drive from Phidim to Khandenba by Jeep   2120 m  Tent
Day 5    Trek from Khandenba to Khewang   1740 m  Tent
Day 6    Trek from Khewang to Yamphudin   2080 m  Tent
Day 7    Acclimatization in Yamphudin   2080 m  Tent
Day 8    Trek from Yamphudin to Tortong   2995 m  Tent
Day 9    Trek from Tortong to Tseram   3870 m  Tent
Day 10    Trek from Tseram to Ramche   4580 m  Tent
Day 11    Acclimatization in Ramche   4850 m  Tent
Day 12    Trek from Ramche to Glacier Camp   4890 m  Tent
Day 13    Trek from Glacier Camp to Kanchenjunga Basecamp   5475 m  Tent
Day 14    Day 15-Day 43 : Climbing Period Base camp  Summit   8586 m  Tent
Day 44    Trek from Base camp to Ramche   4180 m  Tent
Day 45    Trek from Ramche to Tortong   2995 m  Tent
Day 46    Trek from Tortong to Yamphudin   2080 m  Tent
Day 47    Trek from Yamphudin to Khewang   1970 m  Tent
Day 48    Trek from Khewang to Khandenba   1245 m  Tent
day 49    Drive from Khandenba to Bhadrapur & Transfer to the Hotel   95 m  Tent
Day 40    Leisure day in Kathmandu City   1300 m  Hotel
Day 42    Transfer to the International Airport for final departure   000 m  Home

Equipment List

Member Personal Climbing Equipment

 

S.No: Particular. Qty

(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1

(2): down suit -1

(3) : Crampon – 1

(4) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1

(5) : Normal gloves – 2

(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1

(7) : Glacier glasses – 1

(8) : Ice axe – 1

(9) : Harness & tapsling – 1

(10) : Jumer – 1

(11) : Carabiners (normal) – 3

(12) : Down filled Mattress – 1

(13) : Summit socks – 2

(14) : Normal socks – 6

(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) – 1

(16) : Helmet – 1

(17) : Down jacket – 1

(18) : Down trouser – 1

(19) : 8 finger / descender – 1

(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot) – 1

(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1

(22) : Gore-tex trouser – 1

(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3

(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 2

(24) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1

(25) : Thermos bottle – 1

(26) : Base layer – 2

(27) : Swise Knife -1

First Aid

If you are Going Trekking and Climbing in Nepal, you Should Carry the Complete Medic kit.

 

First Aid Kit:

1. Povidone-iodine cream -1 tube.

– Antiseptic cream.

2. Cotton- 1 roll.

For dressing wounds.

3. Dressing gauze –5 pcs.

– For dressing.

4. Crepe bandage –2.

 Sprains and strains,also great as a sling for arm fractures.

5. Band- aid –10.

6. Dressing tape -1.

– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.

7. Moleskin second skin -1 packet:

 Great for treating chaffing and blisters.


Finger Pulse oximetry:

 

1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).

2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.

3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.

4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.

 

 


Medication:

 

8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:

 For mild headaches.

9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:

– To relieve moderate to severe pain.

10.Throat lozenges -20:

– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea  it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.

11.Decongestant -10 tablets:

 For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.

12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:

 For allergies.

13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:

 To control the vomit and nausea.

14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:

 For bacterial diarrhea.

15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:

 For minor gastric upsets and acidity.

16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):

 For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.

17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:

 For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.

18. Dexamethasone  400mg -10 tablets:

 To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.

19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:

 To be use only under expert  supervision to treat HAPE.

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Quick Facts

  •   Destination: Nepal - kanchenjunga
  •  Activities: Trekking - Climbing
  •   Trip Grade: Strenuous
  •   Departure from: Kathmandu
  •   Arrival on: Kathmandu
  •  Best Seasons: Spring - Autumn
  •   Accomodation: B/B plan in Kathmandu
  •   Transportation: Drive - Flight

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