Lhoste Expedition 8516 m

Trip Overview

Lhotse stands at 8516 M, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. Lhotse lies about 3 km south of Mount Everest, separated by the South Col. Lhotse is an exhilarating climb that follows the Everest climbing route up the Lhotse Face before the route steepens to follow an icy gully to the summit. Lhotse has three summits Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m and Lhotse  East 8413m. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the major peak faces in the earth. South Face of Lhotse is the most technical face of Lhotse. Also one of the largest mountain faces in the world.


Lhotse is frightening climb that follows the Everest climbing route up the Lhotse Face before the route steepens to follow an icy gully to the summit. The Lhoste Expedition takes to the north Khumbu glacier where the Everest Base Camp is situated. Both Mt Everest and Lhotse share the same base camp. Sherpa Guides can be taken for help along the way. Fixed ropes and aluminum ladders are used to climb towards the camp 1. Camp 2 takes to the foot of the icy mount Lhotse wall. Camp 3 ascends to the steep allow bands then the route moves towards the lhoste camp four. From Camp 4, we will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit of lhoste.

Expedition Base camp

We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the lhoste expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with comfort mattress and pillow. We provide a roomy dining hall with chairs and tables – carpeted, heated and we have communication tent a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent cook at base camp to provide the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics essential for a successful expedition.

Training and Climbing Approach

We spend several nights at base camp for proper acclimatization before we head to the higher camps. Upon arrival at base camp, we organize climbing training covering climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, use of oxygen, mask and regulator etc. We climb the khumbu ice fall couple of times on our acclimatization hike to camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 to test your climbing skills before we head out on our attempt to climb Everest.


The most suitable seasons to carry out this expedition is during Fall September to November or spring (March to May). Climbing Sherpas guide complete their responsibility preparation by confirming that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food and oxygen for the summit push.  We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a good weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to camp one then camp two, camp three, Camp four and then the Summit. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa guide ratio to help that every climber has complete support to go the summit and return back to base camp safely.

Best session of  Everest expedition:  march-may

Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal.  Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.

Climbing  and Team Composition

The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide. In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber  during the Climbing. All climbing Sherpa guide have inclusive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. This arrangement ensure that if anybody in the group get sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned for the rest of the group. One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition. Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb and  Experienced base camp manager and necessary staff above base camp.

Physical Condition & Experience Requirements

Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000 m experiences will be an asset to climb. Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. The day of the summit, will be required to walk 8-9 hours ascending  and descending. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. It is important for medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases to consult their doctors before taking the trip.

Detail Itinerary

Day 1   Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel   1300 m Hotel
Day 2   Expedition briefing and Preparation   1300 m Hotel
Day 3   Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Phakding   2652 m Lodge
Day 4   Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazzar   34040 m Lodge
Day 5   Acclimatization at Namche Bazaar   3500 m Lodge
Day 6   Trek from Namche Bazzar to Tyangboche Monastry   3860 m Lodge
Day 7   Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche   4243 m Lodge
Day 8   Acclimatization at Dingboche   4410 m Lodge
Day 9   Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche   4900 m Lodge
Day 10   Trek from Lobuche to Everest/Lhoste Base Camp   5364 m Tent
Day 11   Day 11 – Day 53: Climbing Period Base Camp –  Summit   8848 m Tent
Day 53   Packing and Cleaning Base Camp   5364 m Tent
Day 54   Drying and Packing equipment   5364 m Tent
Day 55   Trek from Base Camp to Pheriche   4371 m Lodge
Day 56   Trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar   3440 m Lodge
Day 57   Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla   2800 m Lodge
Day 58   Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel   1300 m Hotel
Day 59   Leisure day in Kathmandu City   1300 m Lodge
Day 60   International flight 3 hours before the scheduled flight.   ooo Home

Equipment List

Member Personal Climbing Equipment


S.No: Particular. Qty


(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1

(2): down suit -1

(3) : Crampon – 1

(4) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1

(5) : Normal gloves – 2

(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1

(7) : Glacier glasses – 1

(8) : Ice axe – 1

(9) : Harness & tapsling – 1

(10) : Jumer – 1

(11) : Carabiners (normal) – 3

(12) : Down filled Mattress – 1

(13) : Summit socks – 2

(14) : Normal socks – 6

(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) – 1

(16) : Helmet – 1

(17) : Down jacket – 1

(18) : Down trouser – 1

(19) : 8 finger / descender – 1

(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot) – 1

(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1

(22) : Gore-tex trouser – 1

(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3

(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 2

(24) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1

(25) : Thermos bottle – 1

(26) : Base layer – 2

(27) : Swise Knife -1





What is the best season to attempt Lhoste ?

  • For mountaineers, the climbing window between April and May is also one of the best times to attempt an ascent to the summit. From mid-June to August, summer may sound like the prime time to visit Mount Everest,  From early September, the monsoon rains decrease. By end of September through to December the weather is usually stable with mild to warm days, cold nights. February, March, April, May, June, October, November, December are the best time to do peak climbing and trek. From July to mid-September is raining season in Nepal.


Do we require peak climbing and mountaineering permit ?

  • Yes you obtain the climbing permit, all mountaineering permits need to be arranged through a travel or trekking agency; it is not allowed to apply individually for expedition/ peak climbing. You will need to fill in a bio-data form and pass this to your agency. You can do this online and add your signature and photograph to the form when you are in Kathmandu. The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is authorized to issue a trekking peak climbing permit for 33 peaks up to 6500 m and climbing permits for other above 6500 m peaks are obtained from Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation.


How long does it take to climb down Lhoste ?

  • This is why the whole climbing period takes a long time to reach the top. Usually, the expedition to Mount lhoste On an average it will take about 79 weeks to complete the entire expedition. Most of the member start their journey from Kathmandu second week of April and they start arriving in base camp end of April. Climbing Sherpa start their journey from Kathmandu third week of  March and they start arriving at the base camp in late March.


Do I need any prior climbing experience ?

  • Peak climbing involves trekking as well as climbing with all the expedition equipment. Previous rock climbing and high elevation over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. High altitude sherpa guide will organize Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. Training will mostly be about using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampon and climbing equipment.


How many hours do we walk /climb each day ?

  • This is best measured in time – about 5 to 7 hours for each full day up to camp three and from three to camp four 7/8 hours . Summit day normally 9/10 hours climbing and It is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the high lands might become a barrier for a successful summit.


Are there a minimum and a maximum number for your groups ?

  • We cater to all group sizes, while maintaining the field staff ratio to give you the best quality and experience high altitude Sherpa guide.


Can I obtain the visa for Nepal upon arrival at the airport ?

  • YES, you can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days can be obtained by paying US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency. Similarly, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100.


 What essential documents do I need to bring with me on tours ?

  • Please bring a copy of your travel insurance, a copy of your passport and 3 photos (passport size) with you for your trip to Nepal. You would need photos for permits.


 Will somebody come to pick me up at the Airport upon my arrival ?

  • Yes, our airport representative will be there to receive you at the airport. office staff will be showing high altitude sherpa guide sign-board. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel.


What sort of accommodation can I expect in Kathmandu and in trekking ?

  • We use standard rooms at three tourist stander hotels in Kathmandu with breakfast included. Along the trekking routes, teahouses/lodges generally provide basic clean facilities with a mattress and a quilt or blanket. The lodges in trekking routes usually provide single and double rooms, or occasionally a dormitory. At times when possible, dining will be around a bon fire. In tea houses, food will be prepared in the kitchen, which you should not enter without permission.


Are the food and water safe to eat and drink ?

  • Hygiene when trekking generally has improved extensively over the last ten years. local trekking guide knowledge to choose the lodges, which maintain a high standard of hygiene. Each day dinner and breakfast will be at a lodge you’ll stay at while for the lunch you would be stopping by on the way where you can order your meals as per your choice. Guide will help you to stop by at best possible places to eat. Most lodges serve boiled and filtered water, which is generally safe, we suggest a drop of iodine to be totally sure. We discourage the purchase of bottled water for the obvious environmental reasons. Please bring a water bottle with you, which you can refill.


How much additional money do I need per day ?

  • It depends on your spending habits. Generally, in Kathmandu, you can allocate USD 10 to USD 15 for a lunch and a dinner. USD 15 to USD 18 per person a day will be enough to buy bottles of water, chocolates, pay for the hot shower and a few drinks during the trekking. Please note, higher you go the things would be expensive especially at higher altitude; all the goods are supplied either by helicopter, horse, mules or porters therefore the things are expensive.


 What mode of transportation do you use ?

  • Depending on the nature of the travel, the transportation to and from the destination varies from domestic flights to vehicular transportation to even piggy back rides on mules and yaks.


Do we book our own international flights to and from Nepal ?

  • Yes, you need to book your own International flights. We are a local agent and it would cost you significantly higher to book through us.


Is there any communication while we are on trekking ?

  • There are telephones in some villages along the trekking routes from which you can make international calls. All our guides carry mobile with local sim card and easily you can buy on arrival time in airport. Also we have kept a satellite phone which has poor connection for the network of phones. Our guide’s use it during the case of emergency and also clients can use them by paying its rental fee.


Can I use credit cards in the places I visit ?

  • Major credit cards are accepted in all places but you need to pay 4% extra as bank levy, which might make cash transaction is highly recommended. Please change the currency in local Nepali Rupees before you go to the mountains. Especially in the Everest trail, ATM would be available only in Namche Bazer, lukla and relying on it is not a better idea as you never know when things stops working. Also, if you try to exchange your foreign currency there you would be getting very less exchange rates.


Can I add extra days to my trip ?

  • High altitude Sherpa can add days at your request with additional costs to cover guides, porters, accommodation and food. If you are in private or solo trip it would be possible as your itinerary is very flexible or if you were in-group then this option would be limited so please make sure before departure tour.


Do I need to tip my guide and porters? How much would that be ?

  • This is a difficult thing to scale. The level of the tip should reflect the level of satisfaction from and personal involvement with your guide. However peak bonus normally $.1500 $.2o00 for high altitude sherps guide.

Cost Included

  • Arrival and Departure: Hotel transfers – Airport Pick Up and Drop
  • Hotel Accommodation In Kathmandu 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast Basis-Twin Bed
  • International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Lhoste. sagaramtha National park & Entry permit ,Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality.
  • 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment ($2,500), salary and accommodation. Garbage Management:
  • lhoste expedition Garbage Deposit fees.
  • Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staffs during the trek and expedition.
  • Member transportation Kathmandu to Everest base camp to Kathmandu.
  • Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staffs From Kathmandu to Everest base camp.
  • Tea house trek to Everest base camp with Lodging & Food and Porters per member up to Base camp.
  • Experienced and well-trained Base camp Cook & kitchen Helpers in base camp
  • All Nepalese staff and porters’ daily wages, salary, equipment, foods & clothing.
  • Each member will have individual tent in Base Camp with comfort maters and pillows
  • Dinning Tent, Kitchen Tent, Communication tent, Toilet & Shower Tent, Staffs Tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
  • Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp.
  • Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
  • Climbing Sherpa Salary & Allowance, Equipment, Food And Clothing.
  • Route Fixing Charges.
  • 4 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 2-oxygen bottle for each high altitude Sherpa.
  • Oxygen Mask & Regulator 1 Set of Summit Oxygen mask for each member and high altitude Sherpa.
  • Gamow Bag: 1 Rescue sled (Gamow bag) for emergency Medical kit.
  • Service above base camp High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot for member, High food for member.
  • Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
  • Emergency communication satellite phone carrying by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge and walkie-talkie.Medical kit.
  • Certificate: Mt. lhoste Certificate after summit.

Cost Not Include

  • Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepali Visa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD$ 100).
  • Lunch & dinner in during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
  • Extra night’s accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
  • Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, medical & emergency evacuation.
  • Rescue Evacuation Medical Air Fare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
  • Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation cost if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs.)
  • Personal Expenses Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, bottled or boiled water, shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
  •  Special Filming, Camera and Drone permit fee.
  • Summit Bonus: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa.
  • Tips Calculate some tips for others staffs.
  • Extra Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary.

First Aid

If you are Going Trekking and Climbing in Nepal, you Should Carry the Complete Medic kit.


First Aid Kit:

1. Povidone-iodine cream -1 tube.

– Antiseptic cream.

2. Cotton- 1 roll.

For dressing wounds.

3. Dressing gauze –5 pcs.

– For dressing.

4. Crepe bandage –2.

 Sprains and strains,also great as a sling for arm fractures.

5. Band- aid –10.

6. Dressing tape -1.

– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.

7. Moleskin second skin -1 packet:

 Great for treating chaffing and blisters.

Finger Pulse Oximetry:


1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).

2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.

3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.

4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.





8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:

 For mild headaches.

9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:

– To relieve moderate to severe pain.

10.Throat lozenges -20:

– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea  it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.

11.Decongestant -10 tablets:

 For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.

12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:

 For allergies.

13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:

 To control the vomit and nausea.

14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:

 For bacterial diarrhea.

15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:

 For minor gastric upsets and acidity.

16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):

 For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.

17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:

 For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.

18. Dexamethasone  400mg -10 tablets:

 To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.

19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:

 To be use only under expert  supervision to treat HAPE.

0  Reviews on Lhoste Expedition 8516 m

Leave a Reply

Price start from

USD 16000

Quick Facts

  •   Destination: Nepal-Everest Region
  •  Activities: Trekking - Climbing
  •   Trip Grade: Very Strenuous
  •   Departure from: Kathmandu
  •   Arrival on: Kathmandu
  •  Best Seasons: spring - autumn
  •   Accomodation: B/B plan in Kathmandu
  •   Transportation: Drive - Flight

Quick Enquiry

Please verify a CAPTCHA