Mount Makalu Expedition is a one of a kind expedition in the Easter region of Nepal near the east Everest in the Khumbu region. Makalu meaning the “Great Black One” is dubbed so because of its ruminating appearance. Mt. Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world and is regarded as one of the most challenging expediting in the world. Mt. Makalu was first climbed by a reach Team in 1995 but since the expedition is challenging, only a few mountaineers are successfully able to ascend it. The expedition takes to a trail with steep pitches and sharp ridges along the way. Makalu Expedition gives not only the view of Mt Makalu but also the surrounding valleys like Arun and Barun. Along the way towards Mt. Makalu, the rich flora and fauna in the untouched and serene Arun valley as well as the ethnic Rai, Sherpa, and Bhotia settlers can be observed.
Makalu Advanced Base Camp (5600 m)
Makalu Advance Base Camp is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalaya. we Provides a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. Expedition members spend most of their time at base camp, so obviously on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. When you arrive at base camp it will already be fully established and Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. It represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Training and Climbing Approach
We spend several nights at base camp for proper acclimatization before we head to the higher camps. Upon arrival at base camp, we organize climbing training covering climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, use of oxygen, mask and regulator etc. We climb couple of times on our acclimatization hike to camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 to test your climbing skills before we head out on our attempt to climb Makalu. Makalu Summit (8485 m), The summit day of Makalu, Most climbers begin their summit bid at 11:00 pm. If all goes well they reach the main summit between 7-10 am. It takes about Five hours to return to Camp Four from the summit and another Two hours to get to camp Three for overnight stay and next day walk to makalu high camp.
Makalu Camp One (6100 m), Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training by your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp one which is at a height of 6100 m–6400 m). Once on the glacier you will encounter mixed terrain including a few crevasses, moraine and 200 m of blue ice. Camp one is divided into two sections, lower camp one and upper camp one, the distance between the two is few hundreds.
Makalu Camp Two (6600 m), The climbing from camp one to camp two is considered the moderate technical section with ice and snow on Mt. Makalu. climbing over snow and ice sections. There are small sections of ice. These sections can be crossed with the support of fixed ropes. Camp two is situated above the snowy terrace.
Makalu Camp Three ( 7200 m), The distance from camp two to camp three is the longest section of the route, it extends 600 m. It does not require any ladder crossings. The main ropes are fixed by a climbing Sherpa team. This is the camp that 30% of climbers plan to do their summit push from. This section takes about four hours for normal climbers and Five hours.
Makalu Camp Four (7600 m), Climbing from camp III to camp IV the distance is short but now you are nearing the death zone. The oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so During the saying of IV we use supplement oxygen. In this section you have to climb for three hours on steep snow and little dangerous in the autumn season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone. Camp will be set up above right above Makalu la.
The most suitable seasons to carry out this expedition is during Fall September to November or spring (March to May). Climbing Sherpas guide complete their duty of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a good weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to The first camp is at 6,100 m, camp two is at 6600 m, the third camp is at 7200 m and the last camp is at 7600 m. then the Summit. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa guide ratio to help that every climber has complete support to go the summit and return back to base camp safely.
BEST SESSION TO VISIT NEPAL
Autumn Session: September – November
The autumn months of mid-September, October and November are known for being Nepal’s mountaineering and the best time to go trekking. The monsoon rains have cleared the sky with outstanding the views are often remarkable. The valleys are still green and the weather is trifling so trekking is far more pleasurable at this time.
Winter Session : December – February
Winter season is usually snowfall at higher elevations in Himalayas. Though it gets colder in night, often it offers the clear day / blue sky and comparatively less trekkers on the trail. Winter Treks like Ghorepani pun hill trek, Mardi Himal trek, Everest base camp, Annapurna Panorama, Annapurna Sanctuary, Everest base and Langtang reason treks are always comfortable to trek even in winter season.
Spring Session: March – May
Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal. Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.
Summer Session: June – August
Though summer collects heavy monsoon rainfall it is very much clear to trek around upper and lower Mustang, lower and upper Dolpo and Nar- Phu valley since they are rain shadow areas. Tibet is much more favorable for Tibet trek. Everest, Langtang and Annapurna are always comfortable to trek even in summer season.
Climbing and Team Composition
The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide. In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber during the Climbing. All climbing Sherpa guide have inclusive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. This arrangement ensure that if anybody in the group get sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned for the rest of the group. One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition. Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb and Experienced base camp manager and necessary staff above base camp.
Physical Condition & Experience Requirements
Previous rock, ice climbing and high altitude over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. on the day of summit will be required to walk 8-9 hours ascending and descending. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. It is important for medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases to consult their doctors before taking the trip.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)
Upon our arrival in Kathmandu, a representative high altitude sherpa will pick up from the airport and take to hotel. In the afternoon briefing about the each day program makalu expedition.
Day 02: Kathmandu Sightseeing
Day second we start a guided tour to several of the most historical and spiritual attractions in Kathmandu.World Heritage Sites including the historic Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupatinath, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ (Swayambhunath) and Buddhist shrine (Bouddhanath) which is one of the largest stupas in the world. In evening there will be a pre-trip discussion where we can meet our trek leader and other team member.
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar then drive to Mun Dada(1,500m): 35 mins flight, 4-5 hours drive.
We fly to Tumlingtar after breakfast and meet the rest of the crew members who will also be joining us for the trek. Next, we drive to mum dada a l mixed settlement. A moderately paced walk through the picturesque villages and lush mountain forests will take us to Num. A ridge line with great views on both side and perched on the end.
Day 04: Num to Seduwa (1,490m/4922 ft): 6-7 hours
A steep descent through forests and terraced farms takes us to Barun River. We cross the river and follow an equally steep ascent up the other side again. Often quite hot – the forest on the valleys offer a bit of shade. This is where Makalu Barun National Park begins and where we register our permits. We camp right at the top of the village.
Day 05: Seduwa to Tashigaon (2,100m/6890ft): 4-5 hours
Ascend the ridge bounded by the Ipsuwa Khola on the west and Kasuwa Khola to the east. Crossing the hillside through quiet villages and passing by small paddy fields, we reach the exotic village of Tashi Gaon. Once there, we are surrounded by breathtaking Himalayan panorama. Overnight in Tashigaon.
Day 06: Tashigaon to Khongma Danda (3,500m/11,483 ft): 6-7 hours
This will be a bit of a tough day as we have to walk on a steep trail in higher elevation. We will ascend through forests to a stream and then onto a ridge. From here the trail gets even steeper and passes a Kharka (grazing land) and finally follows a series of rough stone stairs and small lakes ascending to the top of the ridge. From here it’s a short way down to Khongma Danda. Overnight in Khongma Danda.
Day 07: Acclimatization/Rest
The day off will allow some bodily rest before we take on crossing of the Shipton La the next day. For those who wish to explore the nearby surrounding can walk around the area. Overnight in Khongma Danda.
Day 08: Khongma Danda to Dobate: 6-7 hours
Climb towards the summit of the Shipton La (pass) which takes a few hours to reach. After the lake Kalo Pokhari (3930m), pass over the Keke La at 4,170m. We can see the marvelous views of Chamlang (7321m).After crossing the Keke La pass, we descend through the beautiful valley to Dobate.
Day 09: Dobate to Yangri Kharka (3,557m/11,670 ft): 6-7 hours
From Dobate, we pass through the rhododendron forest which leads to the Barun River and the upper reaches of the valley. We should be very careful during the first two hours of trek as the trail is steep and arduous. We then take a pleasant walk, slowly gaining altitude until we arrive at Yangri Kharka situated at the base of the valley. Overnight at Yangri Kharka.
Day 10: Yangri Kharka to Langmale Kharka: (4,410m/14,468ft): 5-6 hours
Following a moderate walk to the valley, we pass through yak pastures, lush forests and boulder fields. The valley walls tower imposingly above us during the start of the trek. We pass Merek as we make our way further up and notice a significant rise in the scenic Himalayan views.
Day 11: Langmale Kharka to Makalu Base Camp: (4,870m/15,978ft): 6-7 hours
Today is the day we make it to the Base Camp. From Langmale Kharka we make our way up to Shershong and eventually to Makalu Base Camp. The trail is flat with icy glaciers and snow clad mountains accompanying us. Mount Makalu comes into view as we approach Shershong. As we make our way to the camp, we get to soak in the majestic Himalayan panorama surrounding us. Overnight at Makalu Base Camp.
Day 12: Explore Makalu Base Camp
The Base Camp is a rocky barren place with the large Barun Glacier beyond it. From here we can see the magnificent south face of Makalu and the complete panorama of Everest and Lhotse. We can explore the surrounding lakes, glaciers and go for a short trek up where we may celebrate our accomplishment at the camp itself.
Day 13: Hike from Lower Base camp to Higher Base Camp
Day 14 – 42 Day 14 to Day 42: Climbing Period (Base Camp – Makalu Summit (8,485m)– Base Camp)
Day 43: Preparation to Return (Base Camp Cleaning)
Day 44: Makalu Base Camp to Yangri Kharka: 6-7 hours
We descend down from the base camp and take our last glimpse of Makalu before turning the corner and heading back. On our way down, we pass through Shershong, Langmale Kharka, Merek and descend down the valley finally stopping at Yangri Kharka.
Day 45: Yangri Kharka to Dobate: 6-7 hours
From Yangri Kharka we descend through rock falls, green forests and valley, making our way towards Dobate. We follow the river banks of Barun as we descend down the trail.
Day 46: Dobate to Khongma Danda: 5-6 hours
We begin the trek with steep climb from Dobate to Mumbuk (Nambuk) and through a forest of firs and rhododendrons. We then cross the Keke La, Tutu La (Shipton’s Pass) and Kauma La en route. Next, we descend to Khongma Danda again.
Day 47: Khongma Danda to Tashigaon: 4-5 hours
The trek continues with frequent long and steep descent cutting through the hillsides. The trail takes us through thick forests and finally making it to the indigenous Sherpa village of Tashigaon.
Day 48: Tashigaon to Seduwa: 4-5 hours
We retrace our steps as we exit the Makalu Barun National Park and descend down to the Barun River. We then cross the hillside and come across villages and settlements as we move further down finally stopping at Seduwa again.
Day 49: Seduwa to Num: 5-6 hours
We leave Seduwa and trek through lush forests towards Num. The trail goes up and down and passes through dense forests and Sherpa villages as we move downwards. Overnight at Num.
Day 50: Num to Tumlingtar: 6-7 hours
Again we retrace our footsteps to Chichira from where we can savor the glorious vista of Mount Makalu for the last time. The final return leg of the trek will see us overnight at Tumlingtar, ready for an early departure to Kathmandu the following day. Overnight at Tumlingtar.
Day 51: Tumlingtar to Kathmandu: 35 mins flight
Today, we fly back to Kathmandu after our long trek in the mountains. We can rest and relax throughout the day at our hotel or get in touch with our loved ones. In the evening we celebrate our successful jouney to the Makalu base camp and back with a farewell dinner.
Day 52: Final departure day:
Final Departure to your own destinations-Generally 3 hours before your flight time to get Kathmandu airport is needed in Nepal.
Member Personal Climbing Equipment.
S.No: Particular. Qty
(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1
(2): Summit down suit -1
(3) : Crampon – 1
(4) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1
(5) : Normal gloves – 2
(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1
(7) : Glacier glasses – 1
(8) : Ice axe – 1
(9) : Harness & tapsling – 1
(10) : Jumer – 1
(11) : Carabiners (normal) – 3
(12) : Down filled Mattress – 1
(13) : Summit socks – 2
(14) : Normal socks – 6
(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) – 1
(16) : Helmet – 1
(17) : Down jacket – 1
(18) : Down trouser – 1
(19) : 8 finger / descender – 1
(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot) – 1
(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1
(22) : Gore-tex trouser – 1
(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3
(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 2
(24) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1
(25) : Thermos bottle – 1
(26) : Base layer – 2
(27) : Swise Knife -1
What is the best season to attempt Makalu ?
Do we require peak climbing and mountaineering permit ?
How long does it take total days Makalu ?
Do I need any prior climbing experience ?
How many hours do we walk /climb each day ?
Are there a minimum and a maximum number for your groups ?
Can I obtain the visa for Nepal upon arrival at the airport ?
What essential documents do I need to bring with me on tours ?
Will somebody come to pick me up at the Airport upon my arrival ?
What sort of accommodation can I expect in Kathmandu and in trekking ?
Are the food and water safe to eat and drink ?
How much additional money do I need per day ?
What mode of transportation do you use ?
Do we book our own international flights to and from Nepal ?
Is there any communication while we are on trekking/climbing ?
Can I use credit cards in the places I visit ?
Can I add extra days to my trip ?
Do I need to tip my guide and porters ? How much would that be ?
If you are Going Trekking and Climbing in Nepal, you Should Carry the Complete Medic kit.
First Aid Kit:
1. Povidone-iodine cream -1 tube.
– Antiseptic cream.
2. Cotton- 1 roll.
–For dressing wounds.
3. Dressing gauze –5 pcs.
– For dressing.
4. Crepe bandage –2.
– Sprains and strains,also great as a sling for arm fractures.
5. Band- aid –10.
6. Dressing tape -1.
– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.
7. Moleskin second skin -1 packet:
– Great for treating chaffing and blisters.
Finger Pulse oximetry:
1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).
2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.
3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.
4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.
8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:
– For mild headaches.
9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:
– To relieve moderate to severe pain.
10.Throat lozenges -20:
– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.
11.Decongestant -10 tablets:
– For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.
12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:
– For allergies.
13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:
– To control the vomit and nausea.
14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:
– For bacterial diarrhea.
15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:
– For minor gastric upsets and acidity.
16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):
– For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.
17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:
– For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.
18. Dexamethasone 400mg -10 tablets:
– To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.
19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:
– To be use only under expert supervision to treat HAPE
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