Nepal makalu expedition 8485m

Trip Highlights

  • First ascent of Makalu ( 8481m) 15 May 1955Climbed by Lionel Terray, Jean Couzy, Guido Magnone, Gyalzen, Jean Bouvier,Pierre Leroux, Serge Coupé, André Vialatte.
  • Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,485 metres. It is located  on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China.

 

Trip Overview

Mount Makalu Expedition is a one of a kind expedition in the Easter region of Nepal near the east Everest in the Khumbu region. Makalu meaning the “Great Black One” is dubbed so because of its ruminating appearance. Mt. Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world and is regarded as one of the most challenging expediting in the world.

 

Mt. Makalu was first climbed by a rench Team in 1995 but since the expedition is challenging, only a few mountaineers are successfully able to ascend it. The expedition takes to a trail with steep pitches and sharp ridges along the way. Makalu Expedition gives not only the view of Mt Makalu but also the surrounding valleys like Arun and Barun. Along the way towards Mt. Makalu, the rich flora and fauna in the untouched and serene Arun valley as well as the ethnic Rai, Sherpa, and Bhotia settlers can be observed.

 

High Altitude Sherpa has appropriately drafted the itinerary of the makalu  Expedition.  It furthermore makes sure to give services that promise safety along with an incomparable time for the passionate mountaineers who want to board on challenging and surprising expedition towards the captivating, enthralling and stimulating Makalu  Expedition (8848 m)


Makalu Advanced Base Camp (5600m)

Makalu Advanced base camp is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalaya.we Provides a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. Expedition members spend most of their time at base camp, so obviously on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. When you arrive at base camp it will already be fully established and Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. It represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.


Training and Climbing Approach

 

Makalu Camp 1 (6100m): 3-4 hrs.

 Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training by your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I which is at a height of 6100m6400m). Once on the glacier you will encounter mixed terrain including a few crevasses, moraine and 200m of blue ice.  Camp I is divided into two sections, lower camp I and upper camp I, the distance between the two is few hundreds.

 

Makalu Camp 2 (6600m): 3½ hrs

The climbing from camp I to camp two is considered the moderate technical section with ice and snow on Mt. Makalu. climbing over snow and ice sections. There are small sections of ice. These sections can be crossed with the support of fixed ropes. Camp 2 is situated above the snowy terrace.

Makalu Camp 3 (7200m): 4 hrs

The distance from camp II to camp III is the longest section of the route, it extends 600m. It does not require any ladder crossings. The main ropes are fixed by a climbing Sherpa team. This is the camp that 30% of climbers plan to do their summit push from. This section takes about 4 hours for normal climbers and 5 hours.

Makalu Camp 4 (7600m):

Climbing from camp III to camp IV the distance is short but now you are nearing the death zone. The oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so During the saying of IV we use supplement oxygen.  In this section you have to climb for 3 hours on steep snow and little dangerous in the autumn season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone. Camp will be set up above right above Makalu la.

Makalu Summit (8485m) day:

The summit day of Makalu, Most climbers begin their summit bid at 11:00 pm. If all goes well they reach the main summit between 710 am. It takes about 5 hours to return to Camp 4 from the summit and another 2 hours to get to camp three for overnight stay and next day walk to makalu high camp.

The base camp is normally set at around 5,600m, and then four camps follow before reaching the top. The first camp is at 6,100m, camp 2 is at 6600m, the third camp is at 7200m and the last camp is at 7600m.


BEST SESSION TO VISIT NEPAL

 

Autumn Session: September – November  

The autumn months of mid-September, October and November are known for being Nepal’s mountaineering and the best time to go trekking. The monsoon rains have cleared the sky with outstanding the views are often remarkable. The valleys are still green and the weather is trifling so trekking is far more pleasurable at this time.

Winter Session : December – February 

Winter season is usually snowfall at higher elevations in Himalayas. Though it gets colder in night, often it offers the clear day / blue sky and comparatively less trekkers on the trail. Winter Treks like Ghorepani pun hill trek, Mardi Himal trek, Everest base camp, Annapurna Panorama, Annapurna Sanctuary, Everest base and Langtang reason treks are always comfortable to trek even in winter season.

Spring Session: March – May 

 Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal.  Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.

Summer Session: June – August 

Though summer collects heavy monsoon rainfall it is very much clear to trek around upper and lower Mustang, lower and upper Dolpo and Nar- Phu valley since they are rain shadow areas.  Tibet is much more favorable for Tibet trek. Everest, Langtang and Annapurna are always comfortable to trek even in summer season.


Climbing /team composition:

 The expedition leads by English Speaking high altitude Experienced Guide.

 In a group one member has one personal  Climbing Guide during the Climbing.

 One experienced cook and necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition.

 Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb.

 Experienced base camp Guide/manager.


Physical Condition & Experience Requirements:

 Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000m experiences will be an asset.

 Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain.

There will also be climbing training for members at the ama dablem base camp.

The training will mostly be about using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampons.

The day of the summit,will be required to walk 10- 12 hours ascending and descending.

The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain.

Detail Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)

Upon our arrival in Kathmandu, a representative high altitude sherpa will pick  up from the airport and take  to hotel. In the afternoon briefing about the each day program makalu expedition.

 

Day 02: Kathmandu Sightseeing

Day second we start a guided tour to several of the most historical and spiritual attractions in Kathmandu.World Heritage Sites including the historic Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupatinath, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ (Swayambhunath) and Buddhist shrine (Bouddhanath) which is one of the largest stupas in the world. In evening there will be a pre-trip discussion where we can meet our trek leader and other team member.

 

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar then drive to Mun Dada(1,500m): 35 mins flight, 4-5 hours drive.

We fly to Tumlingtar after breakfast and meet the rest of the crew members who will also be joining us for the trek. Next, we drive to mum dada a l mixed settlement. A moderately paced walk through the picturesque villages and lush mountain forests will take us to Num. A ridge line with great views on both side and perched on the end.

 

Day 04: Num to Seduwa (1,490m/4922 ft): 6-7 hours

A steep descent through forests and terraced farms takes us to Barun River. We cross the river and follow an equally steep ascent up the other side again. Often quite hot – the forest on the valleys offer a bit of shade. This is where Makalu Barun National Park begins and where we register our permits. We camp right at the top of the village.

 

Day 05: Seduwa to Tashigaon (2,100m/6890ft): 4-5 hours

Ascend the ridge bounded by the Ipsuwa Khola on the west and Kasuwa Khola to the east. Crossing the hillside through quiet villages and passing by small paddy fields, we reach the exotic village of Tashi Gaon. Once there, we are surrounded by breathtaking Himalayan panorama. Overnight in Tashigaon.

 

Day 06: Tashigaon to Khongma Danda (3,500m/11,483 ft): 6-7 hours

This will be a bit of a tough day as we have to walk on a steep trail in higher elevation. We will ascend through forests to a stream and then onto a ridge. From here the trail gets even steeper and passes a Kharka (grazing land) and finally follows a series of rough stone stairs and small lakes ascending to the top of the ridge. From here it’s a short way down to Khongma Danda. Overnight in Khongma Danda.

 

Day 07: Acclimatization/Rest

The day off will allow some bodily rest before we take on crossing of the Shipton La the next day. For those who wish to explore the nearby surrounding can walk around the area. Overnight in Khongma Danda.

 

Day 08: Khongma Danda to Dobate: 6-7 hours

Climb towards the summit of the Shipton La (pass) which takes a few hours to reach. After the lake Kalo Pokhari (3930m), pass over the Keke La at 4,170m.  We can see the marvelous views of Chamlang (7321m).After crossing the Keke La pass, we descend through the beautiful valley to Dobate.

 

Day 09: Dobate to Yangri Kharka (3,557m/11,670 ft): 6-7 hours

From Dobate, we pass through the rhododendron forest which leads to the Barun River and the upper reaches of the valley. We should be very careful during the first two hours of trek as the trail is steep and arduous. We then take a pleasant walk, slowly gaining altitude until we arrive at Yangri Kharka situated at the base of the valley. Overnight at Yangri Kharka.

 

Day 10: Yangri Kharka to Langmale Kharka: (4,410m/14,468ft): 5-6 hours

Following a moderate walk to the valley, we pass through yak pastures, lush forests and boulder fields. The valley walls tower imposingly above us during the start of the trek.  We pass Merek as we make our way further up and notice a significant rise in the scenic Himalayan views.

 

Day 11: Langmale Kharka to Makalu Base Camp: (4,870m/15,978ft): 6-7 hours

Today is the day we make it to the Base Camp. From Langmale Kharka we make our way up to Shershong and eventually to Makalu Base Camp. The trail is flat with icy glaciers and snow clad mountains accompanying us. Mount Makalu comes into view as we approach Shershong. As we make our way to the camp, we get to soak in the majestic Himalayan panorama surrounding us. Overnight at Makalu Base Camp.

 

Day 12: Explore Makalu Base Camp

The Base Camp is a rocky barren place with the large Barun Glacier beyond it. From here we can see the magnificent south face of Makalu and the complete panorama of Everest and Lhotse. We can explore the surrounding lakes, glaciers and go for a short trek up where we may celebrate our accomplishment at the camp itself.

Day 13: Hike from Lower Base camp to Higher Base Camp

 

Day 14 – 42 Day 14 to Day 42: Climbing Period (Base Camp – Makalu Summit (8,485m)– Base Camp)

 

Day 43: Preparation to Return (Base Camp Cleaning)

 

Day 44: Makalu Base Camp to Yangri Kharka: 6-7 hours

We descend down from the base camp and take our last glimpse of Makalu before turning the corner and heading back. On our way down, we pass through Shershong, Langmale Kharka, Merek and descend down the valley finally stopping at Yangri Kharka.

 

Day 45: Yangri Kharka to Dobate: 6-7 hours

From Yangri Kharka we descend through rock falls, green forests and valley, making our way towards Dobate. We follow the river banks of Barun as we descend down the trail.

 

Day 46: Dobate to Khongma Danda: 5-6 hours

We begin the trek with steep climb from Dobate to Mumbuk (Nambuk) and through a forest of firs and rhododendrons. We then cross the Keke La, Tutu La (Shipton’s Pass) and Kauma La en route. Next, we descend to Khongma Danda again.

 

Day 47: Khongma Danda to Tashigaon: 4-5 hours

The trek continues with frequent long and steep descent cutting through the hillsides. The trail takes us through thick forests and finally making it to the indigenous Sherpa village of Tashigaon.

 

Day 48: Tashigaon to Seduwa: 4-5 hours

We retrace our steps as we exit the Makalu Barun National Park and descend down to the Barun River. We then cross the hillside and come across villages and settlements as we move further down finally stopping at Seduwa again.

 

Day 49: Seduwa to Num: 5-6 hours

We leave Seduwa and trek through lush forests towards Num. The trail goes up and down and passes through dense forests and Sherpa villages as we move downwards. Overnight at Num.

 

Day 50: Num to Tumlingtar: 6-7 hours

Again we retrace our footsteps to Chichira from where we can savor the glorious vista of Mount Makalu for the last time. The final return leg of the trek will see us overnight at Tumlingtar, ready for an early departure to Kathmandu the following day. Overnight at Tumlingtar.

 

Day 51: Tumlingtar to Kathmandu: 35 mins flight

Today, we fly back to Kathmandu after our long trek in the mountains. We can rest and relax throughout the day at our hotel or get in touch with our loved ones. In the evening we celebrate our successful jouney to the Makalu base camp and back with a farewell dinner.

 

Day 52: Final departure day:

Final Departure to your own destinations-Generally 3 hours before your flight time to get Kathmandu airport is needed in Nepal.

Equipment List

Member Personal Climbing Equipment

 

S.No:  Particular.  Qty

(1)  : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1

(2)  : Crampon – 1

(3)  : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1

(4)  : Normal gloves – 2

(5)  : Summit Snow goggles – 1

(6)  : Glacier glasses – 1

(7)  : Ice axe – 1

(8) : Harness & tapsling – 1

(9) : Jumer – 1

(10) :  Carabiners (normal) – 3

(11) : Down filled Mattress – 1

(12) : Summit socks – 2

(13) : Normal socks – 6

(14) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) – 1

(15) : Helmet – 1

(16) : Down jacket – 1

(17) : Down trouser – 1

(18) : 8 finger / descender – 1

(19) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot) – 1

(20) : Gore-tex jacket – 1

(21) : Gore-tex trouser – 1

(22) : Fleece liner gloves – 3

(23) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 2

(24) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1

(25) : Thermos bottle – 1

(26) : Base layer – 2

(27) : Swise Knife -1

Cost Included

  • Arrival and Departure Hotel transfers – Airport Pick Up and Drop
  • Hotel in Kathmandu 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast Basis-Twin Bed
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu and Makalu Barun  National Entry permit.
  • Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer And Garbage Deposit fees.
  • Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staffs during the trek and expedition.
  • all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staffs From Kathmandu to Kathmandu.
  • Lodging & Fooding tea house/ camping trek to ama dabam base camp and Food 3 meals a day.
  • Experience staff and well-trainee Base camp Cook & kitchen Helpers.
  • All Nepalese staffs & porters daily wages, salary, equipment, foods & clothing.
  • Each member will have individual tent in Base Camp.
  • Base Camp equipment: Dinning Tent, Kitchen Tent, Communication tent, Toilet & Shower Tent, Staffs Tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
  • Heater for base camp in each Dinning and other necessary camp.
  • Solar/Generator/Light: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
  • Climbing Sherpa Salary & Allowance: Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food And Clothing.
  • Route Fixing Charges.
  • Oxygen Bottle (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder: 3 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 2-oxygen bottles for each high altitude Sherpa.**
  • Oxygen Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen mask for each member and high altitude Sherpa.**
  • 1 Rescue sled (Gamow bag) for emergency.
  • High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot for member, High food for member. Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
  • Emergency communication satellite phone carrying by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge and walkie-talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base camp. Medical kit.
  • Certificate: after climbing Mt. Makalu successfully

Cost Not Include

  • Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepali Visa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD$ 100).
  • Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner in during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
  • Extra night in Kathmandu: Extra night’s accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
  • Insurance: Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, medical & emergency evacuation.
  • Rescue Evacuation: Medical Air Fare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
  • Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation cost if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs.)
  • Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, bottled or boiled water, shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
  • Filming: Special Filming, Camera and Drone permit fee.
  • Summit Bonus: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa.
  • Tips: Calculate some tips for others staffs.
  • Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary.

First Aid

If you are Going Trekking and Climbing in Nepal, you Should Carry the Complete Medic kit.

 

First Aid Kit:

1. Povidone-iodine cream -1 tube.

– Antiseptic cream.

2. Cotton- 1 roll.

For dressing wounds.

3. Dressing gauze –5 pcs.

– For dressing.

4. Crepe bandage –2.

 Sprains and strains,also great as a sling for arm fractures.

5. Band- aid –10.

6. Dressing tape -1.

– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.

7. Moleskin second skin -1 packet:

 Great for treating chaffing and blisters.


Finger Pulse oximetry:

 

1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).

2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.

3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.

4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.

 

 


Medication:

 

8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:

 For mild headaches.

9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:

– To relieve moderate to severe pain.

10.Throat lozenges -20:

– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea  it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.

11.Decongestant -10 tablets:

 For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.

12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:

 For allergies.

13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:

 To control the vomit and nausea.

14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:

 For bacterial diarrhea.

15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:

 For minor gastric upsets and acidity.

16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):

 For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.

17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:

 For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.

18. Dexamethasone  400mg -10 tablets:

 To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.

19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:

 To be use only under expert  supervision to treat HAPE

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Quick Facts

  •   Destination: Nepal-Makalu
  •  Activities: Climbing
  •   Trip Grade: Very Strenuous
  •   Departure from: Kathmandu Capital of Nepal
  •   Arrival on: Kathmandu Capital of Nepal
  •  Group size: 2+
  •  Best Seasons: April to may & September to October
  •   Meals: Breakfast In ktm & All Meals During The Trek
  •   Accomodation: Hotel in Kathmandu &Tea House during the trek
  •   Transportation: Drive/Flight

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