Mt. Manaslu, The eighth highest peak of the world which is elevated at the height of 8,163m (26,781 ft) above the sea level is located in the ridges of Mansiri Himal in Gorkha District of Nepal. In the last few years, Manaslu climbing in Nepal has become quite popular within the 8000 meter peak visionaries. Climbing Manaslu is about as technical and challenging as Cho Oyu (8,188 meters) and is a good climb before attempting technical above 8000 meters mountain. Base camp of Manaslu lies at a height of 4700m. Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition. The Manaslu expedition is very popular autumn season. The weather is warm and not too cold. The temperate of Mt. Manaslu in the day time will be found mild for climbing. As per our experience climbing in autumn is easier and the success rate of summit is high in the autumn.
Expedition Base camp
We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the Manaslu expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with comfort mattress and pillow. We provide a roomy dining hall with chairs and tables, carpeted, heated and we have communication tent a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent cook at base camp to provide the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics essential for a successful expedition.
Training and Climbing Approach
Our guides will provide training in base camp about climbing techniques. The best ways of using climbing gear such as the ice axe, climbing boots, crampons, harness, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, the training will also include using ropes for climbing both up and down. The training will increase our confidence and climbing skills, therefore increasing our chance of a successful summit of the manaslu. After training we do rest one day in base camp. We hike along On the Manaslu Glacier, we carefully follow the bamboo marker wands. Here we use fixed ropes to cross the serious crevasses and dangerous sections before to get Manaslu Camp one (5700m).
Camp one to camp two (6400m): Camp 2 is located at the safe section of the climb on a relatively flat area at 6400 meters. Although at this campsite there can be a lot of snow accumulation. From Camp One we start the technical climbing using fixed ropes with short sections of up to lower camp two. Camp two to camp three (6800): The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is one of the shortest days with using fixed line rope and only takes around 3 hours. We set up our Camp 3 at the elevation of 6800 meters just below the col to avoid the very strong winds. Camp three to camp 4 (7400): The route involves snow and ice. Climbed using the safety of the fixed ropes in place. Steep sections of snow and ice with safety towards last Camp 4 at 7400 meter and which is takes 5 to 6 hours. Summit day starts around 1 am in the early morning. Which is takes between 5 to 7 hours to get summit.
Climbing Sherpas guide complete their duty of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a good weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to base camp and then camp one, camp two, camp three, camp four and then the Summit. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa guide ratio to help that every climber has complete support to go the summit and return back to base camp safely
BEST SESSION TO VISIT NEPAL
Autumn Session: September – November
The autumn months of mid-September, October and November are known for being Nepal’s mountaineering and the best time to go trekking. The monsoon rains have cleared the sky with outstanding the views are often remarkable. The valleys are still green and the weather is trifling so trekking is far more pleasurable at this time.
Winter Session : December – February
Winter season is usually snowfall at higher elevations in Himalayas. Though it gets colder in night, often it offers the clear day / blue sky and comparatively less trekkers on the trail. Winter Treks like Ghorepani pun hill trek, Mardi Himal trek, Everest base camp, Annapurna Panorama, Annapurna Sanctuary, Everest base and Langtang reason treks are always comfortable to trek even in winter season.
Spring Session: March – May
Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal. Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.
Summer Session: June – August
Though summer collects heavy monsoon rainfall it is very much clear to trek around upper and lower Mustang, lower and upper Dolpo and Nar- Phu valley since they are rain shadow areas. Tibet is much more favorable for Tibet trek. Everest, Langtang and Annapurna are always comfortable to trek even in summer season.
Climbing /team composition:
–The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide.
–In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber during the Climbing.
–One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition.
–Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb.
–Experienced base camp Guide/manager and necessary staff.
Physical Condition & Experience Requirements:
–Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000m experiences will be an asset to climb.
–Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain.
–There will also be climbing training for members at the ama dablem base camp with expedition guide.
–The training will mostly be about using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampons.
–The day of the summit,will be required to walk 8-9 hours ascending and descending.
–The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain.
Day 1: Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu.(1300m)
High altitude Sherpa Airport Representative will meet you outside the Terminal Hall. Transfer to hotel brief you about tomorrow’s activities and collect your needed documents for our official needs. Introduce with your trekking guide check the requirements and briefing about the manaslu expedition each day program. O/n at hotel.
Day 2: Exploration Day in Kathmandu & trekking preparation.
A government registered city guide will take you on a ride through several World Heritage Sites inside Kathmandu which include Pashupatinath Temple Complex, Bouddhanath Stupa, and Swayambhunath Stupa. The tour on the second day concludes with a visit to medieval Kathmandu Durbar Square premises which holds sites like Basantapur Museum and home of Living Goddess- Kumari. O/n at hotel.
Day 3: Drive to Soti Khola (940m): 9-10 hours.
Away from the Kathmandu, you will set Long to drive to Soti Khola with an altitude of 530 m, after crossing the thin trail through the rustic village, along with terraced fields of Budhi Gandaki. The trail will go off at the back of Budi Gandaki, passing complicated land, the plentiful waterway at the core of the village. O/n at hotel.
Day 4: Soti khola to Machha Khola (890m): 6-7 hours.
On the following day, you will move to Machha Khola (890m), after spending a night in Soti Khola. You will stumble upon numerous stars and descend. Then, moving to the direction from the valley the trail will take you to downward, onto the banks of the river to the village of Machhakhola where you will get to view the Ganesh Himal. O/n at hotel.
Day 5: Machha khola to Jagat (1,650m): 6-7 hours.
On the following day, you will move into the forest of a miniature section, you will turn up at the demanding tea house placed at Doban. It is a benefit to experience the rapids at Budhi Gandaki. You will cross the suspension bridge over the river at Lauri and then get prepared to put off upon a renowned trail to the lowland of Jagat (1,650m). O/n at hotel.
Day 6: Jagat to Deng (1,800m): 5-6 hours.
Crossing the summit of a spectacular gorge and incoming the mostly not in use area of pine trees proceeding to drop to a trail associating at New Bridge, you will subsequent the trail towards the left Ghap, the Budhi Gandaki and after that in going into its thin gorge on the variable trail crossing the river. After a suspension bridge, the trail comes in a bamboo forest and soar up to the village of Deng (1,800m), taking 5 hours. O/n at hotel.
Day 7: Deng to Gho (2,490 m): 4-5 hours.
Leaving Deng you will move to Gho with an altitude of 2,490 meters. From Deng you will be taking go up and the trek will take almost 4 hours. O/n at hotel.
Day 8: Gho to Lho gaon (3,180m): 4 -5 hours.
Ascending steadily from the earlier trek today you will start to Lho Gaon. Lho gaon is positioned at an altitude of 3,180 meters taking only 4 hours. O/n at hotel.
Day 9: Lho gaon to Samagaon (3,360m) :4-5 hours.
On the following day passing the bridge above the Numla Khola which exhausts the Pungyen Glacier from the Manaslu, it demonstrates the way to Pungyen gompa. The central element of Samagaon is formed all through the two rows of houses fascinating 4 hours. Samagaon is to be found at an elevation of 3,360 meters. O/n at hotel.
Day 10: Acclimatization day: to Adjust your body with height:
We spent this day fully exploring the main place of Samagaon for best views of Manaslu, Ganesh Himal & Dhaulagiri Mountains range, also we will spend our time with their local people. Hiking around the hill and visit the monastery. O/n at hotel.
Day 11: sama gaon to base camp (4700m): 4-5 hours.
Trek for 4-5 hours to reach Manaslu Base Camp. from Sama Gaon Climb the ridge to the south of Samagoan . You continue to Birendra Tal and you need to be committed to climbing the 1200m to the Manaslu Base camp.
Day 12-33: Climbing Period of Manaslu Expedition (8163m)
Day 34: Samdo to Dharmasala (4,390m): 4 hours.
From base camp descend to Birendra Lake you will go in the following way to Dharmasala. From Dharmasala you can be seen the lofty mountains like Cheo Himal, Annapurna II, and Himlung. O/n at hotel.
Day 35: Dharamsala to Larkya la pass (5140m) to Bhimthang (3,660m): 9 hours.
Bimthang with an altitude of 3,660 meters is a village which can be used for taking rest. Beneath the Larkya Bazaar, you will trek to Bimthang which is, in fact, a widespread value all the way through plentiful numbers of stone walls and unfilled houses. Trek to Bimthang is not as simple trek if we consider 9 hours of broad trek. O/n at hotel.
Day 36: Bhimthang to Dharapani (2,100m): 7-8 hours.
On the following day, you will shift to Trek dharapani (2100m) with 7 hours of delightful trek and almost to the end of the trek. O/n at hotel.
Day 37: Dharpani to kathmandu vai Besi shar.
From Dharapani we take a long scenic drive to Kathmandu vai Besi Shar. Once in Kathmandu you will be transferred to your hotel. kathmandu you can indulge in some shopping or earn some well-deserved rest. O/n at hotel.
Day 38: Departure to international airport:
Generally 3 hours before your flight time to get Kathmandu airport is needed in Nepal. So you transfer you to Kathmandu airport for your own destination.
Member Personal Equipment
S.No: Particular. Qty
(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1
(2) : summit down shut – 1
(2) : Crampon – 1
(3) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1
(4) : Normal gloves – 2
(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1
(7) : Glacier glasses – 1
(8) : Ice axe – 1
(9) : Harness & tapsling -1
(10) : Jumer – 1
(11) : Carabiners (normal) -3
(12) : Down filled Mattress– 1
(13) : Summit socks – 2
(14) : Normal socks – 6
(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) -1
(16) : Helmet -1
(17) : Down jacket– 1
(18) : Down trouser– 1
(19) : 8 finger / descender -1
(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot)– 1
(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1
(22) : Gore-tex trouser -1
(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3
(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 4
(25) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1
(26) : Thermos bottle – 1
(27) : Base layer (woolen) – 2
(28) : Swise Knife -1
What is the best season to attempt manaslu ?
For mountaineers, the climbing window between April -May, September to October is one of the best times to attempt an ascent to the summit. From mid-June to August, summer may sound like the prime time to visit Everest resign, From early September, the monsoon rains decrease. By end of September through to December the weather is usually stable with mild to warm days, cold nights. February, From July to mid-September is raining season in Nepal.
Do we require peak climbing and mountaineering permit?
Yes you obtain the climbing permit, all mountaineering permits need to be arranged through trekking agency, it is not allowed to apply individually for expedition/ peak climbing. You will need to fill in a bio-data form and pass this to your agency. You can do this online and add your signature and photograph to the form when you are in Kathmandu. The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is authorized to issue a trekking peak climbing permit for 33 peaks up to 6500 m and climbing permits for other above 6500m peaks are obtained from Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation.
How long does it take to climb mt. manaslu?
Usually, the expedition to Mt manaslu On an average it will take about 4-5 weeks to complete the entire expedition. Climbing Sherpa and kitchen staff start their journey from Kathmandu one week before then member.
Do I need any prior climbing experience?
Peak climbing involves trekking as well as climbing with all the expedition equipment. Previous rock climbing and high elevation over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. High altitude sherpa guide will organize Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. Training will mostly be about using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampon and climbing equipment.
How many hours do us walk /climb each day?
This is best measured in time – about 5 to 7 hours for each full day up to camp three and from camp three to camp summit 4-5 hours. Summit day normally stat from camp two 7/8 hours climbing and it is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the high lands might become a barrier for a successful summit.
Are there a minimum and a maximum number for your groups?
We provide to all group sizes, while maintaining the field staff ratio to give you the best quality and experience high altitude Sherpa guide.
Can I obtain the visa for Nepal upon arrival at the airport?
YES, you can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days can be obtained by paying US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency. Similarly, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100.
What essential documents do I need to bring with me on tours?
Please bring a copy of your travel insurance, a copy of your passport and 3 photos (passport size) with you for your trip to Nepal. You would need photos for permits.
Will somebody come to pick me up at the Airport upon my arrival?
Yes, our airport representative will be there to receive you at the airport. Office staff will be showing high altitude sherpa guide sign-board. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel.
What sort of accommodation can I expect in Kathmandu and in trekking?
We use standard rooms at three tourist stander hotels in Kathmandu with breakfast included. Along the trekking routes, teahouses/lodges generally provide basic clean facilities with a mattress and a quilt or blanket. The lodges in trekking routes usually provide single and double rooms, or occasionally a dormitory. At times when possible, dining will be around a bon fire. In tea houses, food will be prepared in the kitchen, which you should not enter without permission.
Are the food and water safe to eat and drink?
Hygiene when trekking generally has improved extensively over the last ten years. Local trekking guide knowledge to choose the lodges, which maintain a high standard of hygiene. Each day dinner and breakfast will be at a lodge you’ll stay at while for the lunch you would be stopping by on the way where you can order your meals as per your choice. Guide will help you to stop by at best possible places to eat. Most lodges serve boiled and filtered water, which is generally safe, we suggest a drop of iodine to be totally sure. We discourage the purchase of bottled water for the obvious environmental reasons. Please bring a water bottle with you, which you can refill.
How much additional money do I need per day?
It depends on your spending habits. Generally, in Kathmandu, you can allocate USD 10 to USD 15 for a lunch and a dinner. USD 15 to USD 18 per person a day will be enough to buy bottles of water, chocolates, pay for the hot shower and a few drinks during the trekking. Please note, higher you go the things would be expensive especially at higher altitude; all the goods are supplied either by helicopter, horse, mules or porters therefore the things are expensive.
What mode of transportation do you use?
Depending on the nature of the travel, the transportation to and from the destination varies from domestic flights to vehicular transportation to even piggy back rides on mules and yaks.
Do we book our own international flights to and from Nepal?
Yes, you need to book your own International flights. We are a local agent and it would cost you significantly higher to book through us.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
There are telephones in some villages along the trekking routes from which you can make international calls. All our guides carry mobile with local sim card and easily you can buy on arrival time in airport. Also we have kept a satellite phone which has poor connection for the network of phones. Our guide’s use it during the case of emergency and also clients can use them by paying its rental fee.
Can I use credit cards in the places I visit?
Major credit cards are accepted in all places but you need to pay 4% extra as bank levy, which might make cash transaction is highly recommended. Please change the currency in local Nepali Rupees before you go to the mountains. Especially in the Everest trail, ATM would be available only in Namche Bazer and relying on it is not a better idea as you never know when things stops working. Also, if you try to exchange your foreign currency there you would be getting very less exchange rates.
Can I add extra days to my trip?
High altitude Sherpa can add days at your request with additional costs to cover guides, porters, accommodation and food. If you are in private or solo trip it would be possible as your itinerary is very flexible or if you were in-group then this option would be limited so please make sure before departure tour.
Do I need to tip my guide and porters? How much would that be?
This is a difficult thing to scale. The level of the tip should reflect the level of satisfaction from and personal involvement with your guide. However peak bonus normally $.500 $.1000 for high altitude sherpas guide.
First Aid Kit:
1. Povidone-iodine cream-1 tube.
– Antiseptic cream.
2. Cotton- 1 rolls.
– For dressing wounds.
3. Dressing gauze – 5 pcs.
– For dressing.
4. Crepe bandage – 2.
– Sprains and strains, also great as a sling for arm fractures.
5. Band- aid –10.
6. Dressing tape – 1.
– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.
7. Moleskin second skin-1 packet:
– Great for treating chaffing and blisters.
Finger Pulse Oximeter:
1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).
2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.
3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.
4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.
8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:
– For mild headaches.
9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:
– To relieve moderate to severe pain.
10.Throat lozenges -20:
– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.
11.Decongestant -10 tablets:
– For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.
12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:
– For allergies.
13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:
– To control the vomit and nausea.
14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:
– For bacterial diarrhea.
15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:
– For minor gastric upsets and acidity.
16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):
– For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.
17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:
– For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.
18. Dexamethasone 400mg -10 tablets:
– To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.
19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:
– To be use only under expert supervision to treat HAPE.
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