Mount Pumori is one of the most popular mountains in Nepal. Named by George Leigh Mallory, “Pumori” apparently means “Unmarried Daughter” in the Sherpa language. It is located on the Nepal-Tibet border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. At an altitude of over 7000 meters, Pumori lies just eight kilometers west of Mount Everest. George Mallory, an English mountaineer, gave this name to the mountain which means “the Mountain Daughter” in Sherpa language as this mountain is referred as Mount Everest’s daughter by various mountaineers. For trekkers who are planning to climb the Everest, Mount Pumori is an excellent scope of reference as it takes a lot of technical skills to carry out this expedition which makes this the right platform for practice.
It takes approximately 35 days to carry out this expedition. The expedition starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla followed by various trekking sessions via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche, Pheriche and Lobuche and finally reaching up to Mount Pumori base camp. It comprises of 3 base camps at an altitude of 5700 meters, 6200 meters, and 6850 meters respectively. It started getting recognition when Mount Everest and Mount Pumori were allowed to share the same base camp (for Nepal), offering spellbinding views of Nepal, Tibet, and Everest.
Expedition Base camp
We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the pumori expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with comfort mattress and pillow. We provide a roomy dining hall with chairs and tables – carpeted, heated and we have communication tent a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent cook at base camp to provide the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics essential for a successful expedition.
Training and Climbing Approach
We spend several nights at base camp for proper acclimatization before we head to the higher camps. Upon arrival at base camp, we organize climbing training covering climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, use of oxygen, mask and regulator etc. We climb couple of times on our acclimatization hike to camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 to test your climbing skills before we head out on our attempt to pumori.
pumori camp 1: from Gorakshep four hours of trekking takes us to Camp 1 or Advance Base Camp (5650 m). in camp one spend three night for acclimatize and climb up to camp two or higher then two. You also have to gain 500 m and Route to the peak is rocky with traverse, steep, narrow ridges, wind narrow ridges, and one tunnel climb. Ropes can be needed some times.
pumori camp 2: is located on a narrow bridge at an elevation of 6000 m so we do not need to anxiety of avalanches. Above 5000 m high and also the Ice walls, somewhere small crevasses, and big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500 m.
pumori camp 3: is too windy and at the height of 6408 m. Tibetan plateau can be seen from here. As there are many crevasses and ice walls, you need ropes to summit. You can ascend the summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. After camp three is easier to Mount Pumori Summit (7145 m).
The most suitable seasons to carry out this expedition is during Fall September to November or spring (March to May). Climbing Sherpas guide complete their Responsibility of preparation by ensuring that all the high camps are well stocked with tents, food for the summit push. We return to base camp for rest and recuperation before we make the summit attempt. After getting confirmation of a good weather forecast, we head up with our summit plan to camp one then camp two, camp three and then the Summit. There will be 1:1 one Climber and one climbing Sherpa guide ratio to help that every climber has complete support to go the summit and return back to base camp safely.
Autumn Session: September – November
The autumn months of mid-September, October and November are known for being Nepal’s mountaineering and the best time to go trekking. The monsoon rains have cleared the sky with outstanding the views are often remarkable. The valleys are still green and the weather is trifling so trekking is far more pleasurable at this time.
Winter Session : December – February
Winter season is usually snowfall at higher elevations in Himalayas. Though it gets colder in night, often it offers the clear day/blue sky and comparatively less trekkers on the trail. Winter Treks like Ghorepani pun hill trek, Mardi Himal trek, Everest base camp, Annapurna Panorama, Annapurna Sanctuary, Everest base and Langtang reason treks are always comfortable to trek even in winter season.
Spring Session: March – May
Spring is the best trekking season for the trekking and mountaineering in Nepal. Weather is mostly perfect and temperature is moderate which offers beautiful views without any obstruction. Spring collects beautiful flowers, plants and rare animals Walking is also very much suitable during this season.
Summer Session: June – August
Though summer collects heavy monsoon rainfall it is very much clear to trek around upper and lower Mustang, lower and upper Dolpo and Nar- Phu valley since they are rain shadow areas. Tibet is much more favorable for Tibet trek. Everest, Langtang and Annapurna are always comfortable to trek even in summer season.
The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide. In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber during the Climbing. All climbing Sherpa guide have inclusive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. This arrangement ensure that if anybody in the group get sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned for the rest of the group. One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition. Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb and Experienced base camp manager and necessary staff above base camp.
physical Condition & Experience Requirements
Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. on the day of summit will be required to walk 8-9 hours ascending and descending. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. It is important for medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases to consult their doctors before taking the trip.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,350m):
High altitude Sherpa Trekking Company Airport Representative will meet you outside the Terminal Hall. Transfer to hotel brief you about tomorrow’s activities and collect your needed documents for our official needs. introduce with your trekking guide check the requirements and briefing about the Pumori expedition each day program. O/N at hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu: Sightseeing and trek Preparation:
We tour Durbar Square, Pashupatinath temple, Swayambhunath stupa and Bouddhanath stupa which are all world heritage sites.Pashupatinath temple is one of the most important places of pilgrimage for all Hindus. Swayambhunath is also known as the Monkey Temple and Baudhanath Stupa is one of the largest stupas in the world.in evening we are introduced to our guide and discuss our expedition. O/ n at hotel.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding (2,651m): 40 minutes flight: 3-4 hours trek.
We take an early morning flight to Lukla which is where all Everest treks begin. We walk on a trail that gradually descends to Cheplung village From here we gradually descend until Phakding. O/n at hotel.
Day 04: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,438m): 5-6 hours.
Our trail passes through a pine forest and we continue our walk on the trail that goes north up the Benkar valley. We cross Dudh Koshi River and pass Chumoa and Monjo villages before reaching the entrance of the Everest National Park. Then after crossing a suspension bridge, we pass Jorsale village and walk alongside of the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi rivers. We ascend on a steep trail and reach Namche Bazaar which is probably the biggest town in the Everest region. O/n at hotel.
Day 05: Acclimatization Day – Namche Bazaar: (3,440m).
We can tour Namche Bazaar which is the primary town of the Everest or Khumbu region. We can hike-up to Everest view point hotel and enjoy the sunrise over the Himalayas including Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kongde and so on. If we are interested in a day hike, we can trek to Khumjung village. Today we also visit the Hillary School and a monastery which houses a yeti scalp! O/n at hotel.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m): 10 km: 5-6 hours.
The trek until Phunki is an easy walk. From here we ascend towards Tengboche village which houses the very famous Tengboche monastery which is the biggest monastery of the Everest region.The monastery is blessed with panoramic views of the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Thamserku. if we reach there by 3 o’clock we can observe a Buddhist religious ceremony. O/n at hotel.
Day 07: Tengboche to Dingboche (4,360 m): 9 km: 5 – 6 hours.
Our trail descends and passes through lush forests of birch, confer and rhododendron trees. While trekking we can admire good views .We walk downhill to Debuche and cross the Imja River to reach Pangboche. We choose the upper Pangboche trail and admire the Himalayan vista and the Pangboche Monastery. We continue our walk to the Imja Valley and Lobuche River before ascending to Dingboche. O/n at hotel.
Day 08: Dingboche: Acclimatization to Adjust your body with height.
Spending a day in Dingboche will help us to acclimate to the high altitude. Instead of staying , we climb a ridge located behind the village and see six of the world’s tallest peaks including Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu,Cholatse and Taboche peaks. Among those peaks, Lobuche West, Lobuche East and Lhotse are the most main. From another location on the ridge we can also admire the picturesque Imja Khola Valley and the beautiful Dingboche village. O/n at hotel.
Day 09: dingboche to Lobuche (4900m) 6-7 hours.
From here on forth, the trek will move more gradually be more challenging, due to the higher altitude. We’ll pass Dungla, but not before a tough, steep walk to the top of a high hill. Here are the memorial stupas dedicated to the climbers and trekkers who lost their lives to Everest over the years. The next part of our adventure brings over craggy mountain terrain to Lobuche, a small settlement with amazing views of Mt. Lobuche, Mt. Pumari and the Nuptse. Prepare to snuggle up for a cold night, as we are now almost three miles above sea level and the evenings can be downright chilly! O/n at hotel.
Day 10: Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5170 m), visit Everest Base Camp (5364 m): 6-7 hours:
The trek to Everest Base Camp is not very difficult. However, we ascend and descend mostly on a glacier path. There is also a lot of meandering on rough terrains. As we reach the base camp, we enjoy the incredible melt patterns and admire the gently rounded ice towers on the upper part of the Khumbu glacier. The Everest Base Camp is stunningly beautiful. We can enjoy amazing views of Nuptse, Khumbuste and Pumori mountains from the base camp. After soaking in the beauty, we walk back towards Gorak Shep where we spend the night. O/n at hotel.
Day 11: hike to everest base camp- pumori base camp (5400m): 4/5 hours.
the Everest Base Camp today will have an early breakfast as the hike up to the pummori base camp and Everest base camp takes longer than the hike to Kala Patthar . After returning to Gorak Shep. O/n at hotel.
Day: 12 Base Camp 🙁Climbing Period of pumori 10-12 days):
3 hours of trekking takes us to Camp 1 or Advance Base Camp (5650m).in camp one spend three night to acclimatize. O/n at tented.
Day 26: Now camp 3: Camp 3 is too windy and at the height of 6408m.Tibetan plateau can be seen from here. As there are many crevasses and ice walls, you need ropes to summit. You can ascend the summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Afte camp three is easier to Mount Pumori Summit (7145m). after summite back to base camp. O/ n at tented,
day 27: clear the pumori Base Camp and all the down do pheruche: 6-7 hours. O/n at hotel.
Day 28: Pheriche to Namche Bazaar (3,440m): 6-7 hours.
We lose approximately 2,000 feet in elevation today and walk on a trail with a lot of ups and downs. We descend through a hillside filled with rhododendron and juniper trees and cross a bridge over the Dudh Koshi River. We descend rapidly through pine forest where we can easily spot mountains goats, pheasants and other wild animals and birds common to the area. We walk on winding trails followed by another walk through a forest before reaching Namche Bazaar. O/n at hotel.
Day 29: Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,860m/9,186ft): 6-7 hours:
We begin our trek to Namche Bazaar today on a rocky terrain. It is mostly a downhill trek on a trail alongside the Dudh Koshi River. We cross several suspension bridges, pass by several monasteries and villages before reaching Lukla. After reaching Lukla we spend rest of the day taking rest as today will be our last day on the mountains. O/n at hotel.
Day 30: Fly to Kathmandu:
We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, Our guides can help you with both souvenir shopping or sightseeing. O/n at hotel.
Day 01: Final departure:
Generally 3 hours before your flight time to get Kathmandu airport is needed in Nepal. So you transfer you to Kathmandu airport for your own destination.
Member Personal Equipment
S.No: Particular. Qty
(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1
(2) : summit down shut – 1
(2) : Crampon – 1
(3) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1
(4) : Normal gloves – 2
(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1
(7) : Glacier glasses – 1
(8) : Ice axe – 1
(9) : Harness & tapsling -1
(10) : Jumer – 1
(11) : Carabiners (normal) -3
(12) : Down filled Mattress– 1
(13) : Summit socks – 2
(14) : Normal socks – 6
(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) -1
(16) : Helmet -1
(17) : Down jacket– 1
(18) : Down trouser– 1
(19) : 8 finger / descender -1
(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot)– 1
(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1
(22) : Gore-tex trouser -1
(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3
(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 4
(25) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1
(26) : Thermos bottle – 1
(27) : Base layer (woolen) – 2
(28) : Swise Knife -1
What is the best season to attempt Pumori ?
For mountaineers, the climbing window between April -May, October to November is also one of the best times to attempt an ascent to the summit. From mid-June to August, summer may sound like the prime time to visit Everest resign, From early September, the monsoon rains decrease. By end of September through to December the weather is usually stable with mild to warm days, cold nights. February, March, April, May, June, October, November, December are the best time to do peak climbing and AMA dablam expedition and trek. From July to mid-September is raining season in Nepal.
Do we require peak climbing and mountaineering permit ?
Yes you obtain the climbing permit, all mountaineering permits need to be arranged through a travel or trekking agency; it is not allowed to apply individually for expedition/ peak climbing. You will need to fill in a bio-data form and pass this to your agency. You can do this online and add your signature and photograph to the form when you are in Kathmandu. The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is authorized to issue a trekking peak climbing permit for 33 peaks up to 6500 m and climbing permits for other above 6500 m peaks are obtained from Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation.
How long does it take to climb down Pumori ?
This is why the whole climbing period takes three weeks to reach the top. Usually, the expedition to Mount Pumori On an average it will take about 3-4 weeks to complete the entire expedition. Climbing Sherpa and kitchen staff start their journey from Kathmandu one week before then member.
Do I need any prior climbing experience ?
Peak climbing involves trekking as well as climbing with all the expedition equipment. Previous rock climbing and high elevation over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. High altitude sherpa guide will organize Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. Training will mostly be about using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampon and climbing equipment.
How many hours do we walk /climb each day ?
This is best measured in time – about 5 to 7 hours for each full day up to camp three and from camp three to camp summit 4-5 hours . Summit day normally stat from camp two 8/9 hours climbing and It is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the high lands might become a barrier for a successful summit.
Are there a minimum and a maximum number for your groups ?
We cater to all group sizes, while maintaining the field staff ratio to give you the best quality and experience high altitude Sherpa guide.
Can I obtain the visa for Nepal upon arrival at the airport ?
YES, you can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days can be obtained by paying US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency. Similarly, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100.
What essential documents do I need to bring with me on tours ?
Please bring a copy of your travel insurance, a copy of your passport and 3 photos (passport size) with you for your trip to Nepal. You would need photos for permits.
Will somebody come to pick me up at the Airport upon my arrival ?
Yes, our airport representative will be there to receive you at the airport. office staff will be showing high altitude sherpa guide sign-board. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel.
What sort of accommodation can I expect in Kathmandu and in trekking ?
We use standard rooms at three tourist stander hotels in Kathmandu with breakfast included. Along the trekking routes, teahouses/lodges generally provide basic clean facilities with a mattress and a quilt or blanket. The lodges in trekking routes usually provide single and double rooms, or occasionally a dormitory. At times when possible, dining will be around a bon fire. In tea houses, food will be prepared in the kitchen, which you should not enter without permission.
Are the food and water safe to eat and drink ?
Hygiene when trekking generally has improved extensively over the last ten years. local trekking guide knowledge to choose the lodges, which maintain a high standard of hygiene. Each day dinner and breakfast will be at a lodge you’ll stay at while for the lunch you would be stopping by on the way where you can order your meals as per your choice. Guide will help you to stop by at best possible places to eat. Most lodges serve boiled and filtered water, which is generally safe, we suggest a drop of iodine to be totally sure. We discourage the purchase of bottled water for the obvious environmental reasons. Please bring a water bottle with you, which you can refill.
How much additional money do I need per day ?
It depends on your spending habits. Generally, in Kathmandu, you can allocate USD 10 to USD 15 for a lunch and a dinner. USD 15 to USD 18 per person a day will be enough to buy bottles of water, chocolates, pay for the hot shower and a few drinks during the trekking. Please note, higher you go the things would be expensive especially at higher altitude; all the goods are supplied either by helicopter, horse, mules or porters therefore the things are expensive.
What mode of transportation do you use ?
Depending on the nature of the travel, the transportation to and from the destination varies from domestic flights to vehicular transportation to even piggy back rides on mules and yaks.
Do we book our own international flights to and from Nepal ?
Yes, you need to book your own International flights. We are a local agent and it would cost you significantly higher to book through us.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking ?
There are telephones in some villages along the trekking routes from which you can make international calls. All our guides carry mobile with local sim card and easily you can buy on arrival time in airport. Also we have kept a satellite phone which has poor connection for the network of phones. Our guide’s use it during the case of emergency and also clients can use them by paying its rental fee.
Can I use credit cards in the places I visit ?
Major credit cards are accepted in all places but you need to pay 4% extra as bank levy, which might make cash transaction is highly recommended. Please change the currency in local Nepali Rupees before you go to the mountains. Especially in the Everest trail, ATM would be available only in Namche Bazer and relying on it is not a better idea as you never know when things stops working. Also, if you try to exchange your foreign currency there you would be getting very less exchange rates.
Can I add extra days to my trip ?
High altitude Sherpa can add days at your request with additional costs to cover guides, porters, accommodation and food. If you are in private or solo trip it would be possible as your itinerary is very flexible or if you were in-group then this option would be limited so please make sure before departure tour.
Do I need to tip my guide and porters ? How much would that be ?
This is a difficult thing to scale. The level of the tip should reflect the level of satisfaction from and personal involvement with your guide. However peak bonus normally $.500 $.1000 for high altitude sherps guide.
First Aid Kit:
1. Povidone-iodine cream-1 tube.
– Antiseptic cream.
2. Cotton- 1 rolls.
– For dressing wounds.
3. Dressing gauze – 5 pcs.
– For dressing.
4. Crepe bandage – 2.
– Sprains and strains, also great as a sling for arm fractures.
5. Band- aid –10.
6. Dressing tape – 1.
– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.
7. Moleskin second skin-1 packet:
– Great for treating chaffing and blisters.
Finger Pulse Oximeter:
1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).
2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.
3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.
4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.
8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:
– For mild headaches.
9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:
– To relieve moderate to severe pain.
10.Throat lozenges -20:
– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.
11.Decongestant -10 tablets:
– For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.
12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:
– For allergies.
13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:
– To control the vomit and nausea.
14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:
– For bacterial diarrhea.
15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:
– For minor gastric upsets and acidity.
16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):
– For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.
17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:
– For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.
18. Dexamethasone 400mg -10 tablets:
– To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.
19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:
– To be use only under expert supervision to treat HAPE.
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