Mount K2 8611 m is the second highest peak in the world and situated on the Pakistan China border in the mighty Karakorams. Mount k2 is also known as CHOGORI which is local Balti language means the king of mountains. Climbing K2 is considered one of the top mountaineering adventures in the world. It combines the thrill of Climbing and Trekking in the glacial surroundings around Baltoro Glacier. The traditional rout to its base camp goes from Skardu Baltistan which is linked with Islamabad by Karakoram Highway as well as by air. From Skardu the rout goes via Shigar-Dassu-Askole upto Concordia over the Baltoro Glacier.
The five above 8,000 meter peaks out of the World’s fourteen (14) 8,000 meter peaks are in Pakistan. Mount K2 8611 m is the second highest peak in the world. normally two commercial rout in K2. Abruzzi Spur (South East Ridge) and Cesen route. The Cesen route is steeper and more direct than the Abruzzi and rises straight up the South Face of towards the summit an hour from Base Camp. The ‘Cesen’ route joins the Abruzzi Ridge at the ‘Shoulder’ at 8,000 meters. After that it follows the same route on summit day. An Italian expedition finally succeeded in ascending to the summit of K2 via the Abruzzi Spur on 31 July 1954. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio, and the two climbers who reached the summit were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.
Expedition Base camp
We set up a permanent Expedition base camp for as long as the K2 expedition continues. Each of the members has a personal tent with comfort mattress and pillow. We provide a roomy dining hall with chairs and tables – carpeted, heated and we have communication tent a shower tent and toilet tent, all kept in hygienic order. All members of the climbing staff have their own tent along with kitchen and store tents. We have an excellent cook at base camp to provide the great meals and expedition team manager to deal with all the required logistics essential for a successful expedition.
Training and Climbing Approach
Above base camp (5400 m’) we have 5 camps: Advanced Base Camp (17,400’), Camp 1 (6050 m), Camp 2 (6700 m’), Camp 3 (7200 m), and Camp 4 (7600 m’). Much of the route leading up to Camp 4 is on steep snow or ice slopes, however there is also significant rock. Portions of the route such as House’s Chimney and The Black Pyramid involve sustained periods of vertical rock climbing, so one should be well experienced using crampons on steep rock at high altitude. Our proposal is to climb halfway up the route reaching Camp 3 to acclimatize before making our summit rotation.
On summit day we begin the gradual ascent of “the Shoulder” on hard snow and ice leading up to the bottleneck. Below bottleneck rock and snow climb under the looming Serac. Next is the “Traverse” Approximately 100 m after the bottleneck the terrain which is mostly front pointing, and then the upper snow slopes leading to K2’s summit, where we are often breaking trail through knee deep snow. The view from the top is amazing!
Climbing /Team Composition
The expedition leads by an English Speaking high altitude experience guide. In a group There will be 1:1 one Climber during the Climbing. All climbing Sherpa guide have inclusive knowledge of wilderness medical training and they are competent to deal with the normal medical issues. This arrangement ensure that if anybody in the group get sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned for the rest of the group. One experienced cook & necessary Sherpa staff during the expedition. Assistants Sherpa who will assist in setting up camps during the climb and Experienced base camp manager and necessary staff above base camp.
physical Condition & Experience Requirements
Previous rock and ice climbing and high altitude over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. on the day of summit will be required to walk 8-9 hours ascending and descending. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. It is important for medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases to consult their doctors before taking the trip.
|Day 1||Arrival in Islamabad & Transfer to the Hotel||93 m||hotel|
|Day 2||Rest day in Islamabad||585 m||hotel|
|Day 3||fly from Islamabad to Scardu||2288 m||hotel|
|Day 4||Rest Day in Skardu : Expedition briefing and preparation||2288 m||hotel|
|Day 5||Drive from Skardu to Askole||2600 m||Tent|
|Day 6||Trek from Askole to Jhola||3185 m||Tent|
|Day 7||Trek from Jhola to Paiyu||3383 m||Tent|
|Day 8||Rest day in Paiyu||3383 m||Tent|
|Day 9||Trek from Paiyu to Urdukas||4130 m||Tent|
|Day 10||Trek from Urdukas to Goro II||4250 m||Tent|
|Day 11||Trek from Goro II to Broad Peak Basecamp||4572 m||Tent|
|Day 12||Trek from Broad Peak Basecamp to K2 Basecamp (5,150m||5105 m||Tent|
|Day 13||Day 13 – Day 43: Climbing Period [Basecamp – Summit (8,611m) – Basecamp]||5105 m||Tent|
|Day 14||Cleaning Up Basecamp: Preparation for descending back||5105 m||Tent|
|Day 15||Trek from Basecamp to Goro II||4250 m||Tent|
|Day 16||Trek from Goro II to Khuburtze||3350 m||Tent|
|Day 17||Trek from Khuburtze to Mundung||3208 m||Tent|
|Day 18||Trek from Mundung to Askole||2600 m||Tent|
|Day 19||Drive from Askole to Skardu||2288 m||hotel|
|Day 20||Fly from Skardu to Islamabad & transfer to the Hotel||93 m||hotel|
|Day 21||Leisure day in Islamabad||93 m||hotel|
|Day 22||Transfer to the International Airport for final departure||oooo||home|
S.No: Particular. Qty
(1) : Summit shoe La Sportiva – 1
(2) : summit down shut – 1
(2) : Crampon – 1
(3) : Summit Glove (Mitten) – 1
(4) : Normal gloves – 2
(6) : Summit Snow goggles – 1
(7) : Glacier glasses – 1
(8) : Ice axe – 1
(9) : Harness & tapsling -1
(10) : Jumer – 1
(11) : Carabiners (normal) -3
(12) : Down filled Mattress– 1
(13) : Summit socks – 2
(14) : Normal socks – 6
(15) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) -1
(16) : Helmet -1
(17) : Down jacket– 1
(18) : Down trouser– 1
(19) : 8 finger / descender -1
(20) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot)– 1
(21) : Gore-tex jacket – 1
(22) : Gore-tex trouser -1
(23) : Fleece liner gloves – 3
(24) : Screw Gate Carabiner – 4
(25) : Balaclava (windstopper) – 1
(26) : Thermos bottle – 1
(27) : Base layer (woolen) – 2
(28) : Swise Knife -1
What is the best season to attempt K2 ?
For mountaineers, the climbing window between July 20 – July 29, is one of the best times to attempt an ascent to the summit. From mid-June to August, summer may sound like the prime time to visit K2 resign, From early September, the monsoon rains decrease. By end of September through to December the weather is usually stable with mild to warm days, cold nights. February.
Do we require peak climbing and mountaineering permit?
Yes you obtain the climbing permit, all mountaineering permits need to be arranged through trekking agency, it is not allowed to apply individually for expedition/ peak climbing. To climb K2 from the Pakistani side, it is necessary to apply for permission from the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad. The peak fee for south side expeditions is 7,200 USD for a team of up to 7 climbers, and 1,200 USD for each additional climber.
How long does it take to climb mt. K2 ?
Usually, the expedition to Mt k2 On an average it will take about 8-9 weeks to complete the entire expedition. Climbing Sherpa and kitchen staff start their journey from Islamabad one week before then member.
Do I need any prior climbing experience?
Peak climbing involves trekking as well as climbing with all the expedition equipment. Previous rock climbing and high elevation over 6000 m experiences will be an asset. High altitude sherpa guide will organize Experience of walking on Glacier with crampon and using ascending, descending device in mountain. Training will mostly be about using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampon and climbing equipment.
How many hours do us walk /climb each day?
This is best measured in time – about 5 to 7 hours for each full day up to camp three and from camp three to camp summit 4-5 hours. Summit day normally stat from camp two 7/8 hours climbing and it is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the high lands might become a barrier for a successful summit.
Are there a minimum and a maximum number for your groups?
We provide to all group sizes, while maintaining the field staff ratio to give you the best quality and experience high altitude Sherpa guide.
Can I obtain the visa for Nepal upon arrival at the airport?
YES, you can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days can be obtained by paying US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency. Similarly, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100.
What essential documents do I need to bring with me on tours?
Please bring a copy of your travel insurance, a copy of your passport and 3 photos (passport size) with you for your trip to Islamabad. You would need photos for permits.
Will somebody come to pick me up at the Airport upon my arrival?
Yes, our airport representative will be there to receive you at the airport. Office staff will be showing high altitude sherpa guide sign-board. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel.
What sort of accommodation can I expect in islamabad and in trekking?
We use standard rooms at three tourist stander hotels in ilamabad with breakfast included. Along the trekking routes, tea houses/lodges generally provide basic clean facilities with a mattress and a quilt or blanket. The lodges in trekking routes usually provide single and double rooms, or occasionally a dormitory. At times when possible, dining will be around a bon fire. In tea houses, food will be prepared in the kitchen, which you should not enter without permission.
Are the food and water safe to eat and drink?
Hygiene when trekking generally has improved extensively over the last ten years. Local trekking guide knowledge to choose the lodges, which maintain a high standard of hygiene. Each day dinner and breakfast will be at a lodge you’ll stay at while for the lunch you would be stopping by on the way where you can order your meals as per your choice. Guide will help you to stop by at best possible places to eat. Most lodges serve boiled and filtered water, which is generally safe, we suggest a drop of iodine to be totally sure. We discourage the purchase of bottled water for the obvious environmental reasons. Please bring a water bottle with you, which you can refill.
How much additional money do I need per day?
It depends on your spending habits. Generally, in islamabad , you can allocate USD 15 to USD 20 for a lunch and a dinner. USD 18 to USD 20 per person a day will be enough to buy bottles of water, and a few drinks during the trekking. Please note, higher you go the things would be expensive especially at higher altitude; all the goods are supplied either by helicopter, horse, mules or porters therefore the things are expensive.
What mode of transportation do you use?
Depending on the nature of the travel, the transportation to and from the destination varies from domestic flights to vehicular transportation to even piggy back rides on mules and yaks.
Do we book our own international flights to and from Nepal?
Yes, you need to book your own International flights. We are a local agent and it would cost you significantly higher to book through us.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
There are telephones in some villages along the trekking routes from which you can make international calls. All our guides carry mobile with local sim card and easily you can buy on arrival time in airport. Also we have kept a satellite phone which has poor connection for the network of phones. Our guide’s use it during the case of emergency and also clients can use them by paying its rental fee.
Can I use credit cards in the places I visit?
Major credit cards are accepted in all places but you need to pay 4% extra as bank levy, which might make cash transaction is highly recommended. Please change the currency in local Pakistani rupees before you go to the mountains. Especially in the Everest trail, ATM would be available only in scardu and relying on it is not a better idea as you never know when things stops working. Also, if you try to exchange your foreign currency there you would be getting very less exchange rates.
Can I add extra days to my trip?
High altitude Sherpa can add days at your request with additional costs to cover guides, porters, accommodation and food. If you are in private or solo trip it would be possible as your itinerary is very flexible or if you were in-group then this option would be limited so please make sure before departure tour.
Do I need to tip my guide and porters? How much would that be?
This is a difficult thing to scale. The level of the tip should reflect the level of satisfaction from and personal involvement with your guide. However peak bonus normally $.500 $.1000 for high altitude sherpas guide.
First Aid Kit:
1. Povidone-iodine cream-1 tube.
– Antiseptic cream.
2. Cotton- 1 rolls.
– For dressing wounds.
3. Dressing gauze – 5 pcs.
– For dressing.
4. Crepe bandage – 2.
– Sprains and strains, also great as a sling for arm fractures.
5. Band- aid –10.
6. Dressing tape – 1.
– Great not just for dressing but falsifier mild soft tissue injuries especially in the knee and ankles.
7. Moleskin second skin-1 packet:
– Great for treating chaffing and blisters.
Finger Pulse Oximeter:
1. Normal arterial oxygen is approximately 75 to 100 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg).
2. Values fewer than 60 mm Hg usually indicate the need for supplemental oxygen.
3. Normal pulse oximeter readings usually range from 95 to 100 percent.
4. Values under 90 percent are considered low.
8. Paracetamole 300mg -20 tablets:
– For mild headaches.
9. Ibuprofen 400mg -10 taplets:
– To relieve moderate to severe pain.
10.Throat lozenges -20:
– For cough and sore throat. Given the cold dry mountain air,it is a good idea it have one in your mouth even without any discomfort.
11.Decongestant -10 tablets:
– For nausea congestion. Non-drowsy kinds like pseudo ephedrine recommended.
12. Antihistamine -10 tablets:
– For allergies.
13. Antiemetic -10 –tablets:
– To control the vomit and nausea.
14. Azithromycin 500mg – 10 tablet:
– For bacterial diarrhea.
15. Omeprazole 200mg -10 tablets:
– For minor gastric upsets and acidity.
16. Tinidazole 200 mg –3 taplats(500mg-12 tablets):
– For giardia and amoebic diarrhea.
17. Acetazolamide 250 mg –20 tablets:
– For helping with acclimataization and treating mild AMS.
18. Dexamethasone 400mg -10 tablets:
– To be used only under expert supervision to treat AMS.
19. Nifedipine 60mg – 10 tablets:
– To be use only under expert supervision to treat HAPE.
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